Tag: history

I use the em dash

Amy O3 Comments

Supposedly you can tell when something you’re reading was written by AI. For example, I’m told that AI exclusively uses the “em” dash. An em dash is a longish dash, supposedly about the length of an “m.” (In contrast with an “en” dash, which as you might guess is a bit shorter in length about the length of an “n.”) When you use Microsoft Word, when you type two dashes followed by a letter, it turns into a single em dash, but in some programs it appears like the two dashes you typed in. If you see something with an em dash, presumably that’s AI.

The fact is, I’ve long used the em dash. And if the em dash is considered so rare that only AI regularly uses it, I have to presume it’s because AI is (are?) a voracious reader of my blog.

It’s good to have readers, human or otherwise. I’ve long understood that this blog is kind of a weird one. It’s not really a sports blog, not really a travel blog. I write about the matches we attended but don’t really analyze them. I might describe a play or exhibit we attended but I don’t really critique it. Although I used to blog during a trip, I haven’t done that for a while. I’ve concluded that no one who visits here is unaware of the result of the match and waiting breathlessly for what I have to say about it.

Also, when I blog while traveling the whole thing seems performative. Like I need to do things specifically and only to entertain you. A few months ago I was watching the Netflix movie about Gabby Petito, the vloger who was traveling with her soon-to-be-homicidal fiancé in a van across the United States and it confirmed for me my decision. Trying to be the center of too much attention is bad for you. (Well, it was bad for her, that’s for sure.)

My last trip to London concluded several weeks ago but on the day we flew back to Chicago I was feeling pretty bad. I knew my body was trying to fight off a cold or something like that for the last couple of days we were in London and was pretty sure it had failed in the fight by the Sunday we boarded the plane. When we got home I put a load of laundry in the washing machine and climbed into my bed for about a week. Fever, runny nose, no appetite. My ears started draining and my eyes were red and itchy. I decided to go to the urgent care clinic and see if antibiotics were needed. While I was there they noticed my blood oxygen was low and resting heart rate was high and decided to do a chest x-ray. That showed a mild case of pneumonia. Outfitted with all kinds of antibiotics, eye drops, an oxygen monitor, an inhaler, and many boxes of tissues, I got through another week after which I started to feel human again. I had thought over the past couple of weeks maybe my recent trip is one that I won’t bother to blog about, but now I’m feeling energetic and it was a good trip. So, a belated roundup.

Our hotel, the Middle Eight.

As many times as we have been to London and (mostly) attempted to stay in different hotels and neighborhoods, there are still quite a few areas we’ve never stayed in. Our hotel this time, Middle Eight, was located near Covent Garden. One of the things we loved about it was that it was very near the Holborn tube station which meant we could take the Piccadilly line from and to the airport and The Emirates with no station changes. Although we usually travel with just a carry-on suitcase, we usually do have to make some awkward Tube line changes, often involving forays up and down stairs. Also, having to change train lines at Kings Cross St Pancras on a weekday morning to go to the airport or on the night of a match can be tricky, with the big crowds involved. We found ourselves separated more than once when one of gets swept onto and the other away from the train when it arrives in the station.

But this time, no Tube drama at all. The Holborn station has only a few stairs to contend with and was rarely crowded. By the time we reached the station with big crowds we were comfortably seated on the train.

Besides the train benefits, the hotel was nice. It had what we needed, including being close to some nice restaurants and Covent Garden, a fun place to visit. On a particularly rainy night we chose to have dinner inside the hotel and it was quite nice.

The matches

Our attendance this particular week followed Arsenal’s first loss of the season at home, to what seemed an imminently beatable Manchester United. Along with the rest of the deeply nervous Arsenal fan base, we felt pretty deflated by the loss. All I can say is that having finished in second place for three seasons in a row, we are always feeling what we think is the other shoe dropping. As they say around soccer, it’s the hope that kills you. After the home loss to Man U, Arsenal did have a solid win away at Leeds before we arrived. Despite occasional setbacks, we continue to have the hope that threatens ultimately to kill us and hence we find ourselves in London.

Caribou cup semi-final vs. Chelsea. Of all the teams I despise, Chelsea is probably right at the top, but we’ve never before had tickets for a match against them. We were able to get tickets using the ballot. Although this competition might not be at the top of what we hope to achieve, I think Arsenal fans were happy to be challenging to get into the final.

The match was on a rainy, cold evening. I guess that can be said for almost every match in the UK this year. It’s been a weirdly rainy period. We arrived at the stadium ridiculously early during a quasi-break in the rain action. Craving warmth before the match, instead of drinking beer we took the unusual action of eating a giant basket of french fries/chips even though we had just had dinner. The stadium was nearly empty when we found our seats in the Northeast corner of the upper bowl. Our seats were well-covered, but looking at torrents of rain coming down and wind whipping around the stadium and feeling my wet shoes, I shivered for the full two hours.

Weirdly (for me), the shivering was not at all about the match. Unlike my usual demeanor, I felt so calm it was as if I had been drugged. The semi-final consists of two matches, the first one having been played at Chelsea earlier. Arsenal won that by a goal, which meant Chelsea had to win this match by at least two goals to get into the final. Someone must have failed to deliver that memo to Chelsea. When I saw the very defensive-looking Chelsea lineup come up on the screens in the concourse as we ate our chips, I thought “Is this a trick?” But they actually did set up–and played–as if they didn’t require any goals. Arsenal exerted very little effort other than to contain them, which we successfully did for 90+ minutes. Then the Chelsea player I dislike most, Marc Cucerella, made a bad pass under pressure, which was quickly turned into an Arsenal breakaway. Declan Rice made a beautiful, long pass to Kai Havertz, only recently back playing after a horrendous knee injury kept him out for close to a year. Havertz evaded the keeper and passed the ball into the net. Havertz is a former Chelsea player but apparently the statute of limitations on celebrating against his former team had passed. He happily pointed to the Arsenal badge. With Chelsea being unable to score, we were already through to the finals at Wembley, but we thoroughly enjoyed that goal. Mercifully, the rain was quiet for our very cheerful, loud walk back to the Arsenal tube station.

Premier League match vs. Sunderland. Sunderland is one of the three newly-promoted teams into the Premier League. For the past couple of seasons, the newly-promoted teams have usually found themselves relegated at the end of the season. The gulf between the Premier League and the Championship has just seemed too big. That is not true this season, however, and Sunderland, in particular, has taken to the Premier League quite well. Some of their success has been attributable to excellent talent acquisition over the summer, one of them being our former captain Granit Xhaka, who left Arsenal for Bayer Leverkusen a few seasons ago. He was out injured for this match, although he did attend the game.

My husband and I hadn’t been successful getting tickets for this match in the ballot, but I was so sure we would be able to get tickets on the exchange I convinced my husband we should stay in London for the whole week; to see the Chelsea match on Tuesday night and the Sunderland match on Saturday afternoon. I finally was successful getting my ticket a few hours before we went to the airport in Chicago. After thousands of clicks during the week in London, I was ultimately successful in getting a ticket for my husband the day before the match. Phew.

It was rainy for parts of the day but not bad close to match time. My husband and I had visited a few Fullers pubs in advance of the match and then took a quick turn around the Armoury before we went our separate ways outside the stadium.

The match was a lot of fun. There appeared to be a lot of “singles” in my section rather than people attending together who knew each other so we had to form our own environment together. Mikel Arteta had asked fans to provide a wonderful atmosphere for this match and we did our best. Arsenal started mixed, on the front foot sometimes, repeatedly followed by some serious danger on the other end.

Arsenal finally scored a few minutes before halftime with a lovely strike from distance by Martin Zubimendi. It hit the near post and flew across into the opposite side of the net. I was sitting about as far away as possible from that goal and, except for the roar of the fans in front of the goal, I would have thought it was behind the net rather than in it.

With Gabriel Jesus healthy again, he was given the start at striker instead of Viktor Gyokeres. Gyokeres has a bit of a rough start with Arsenal all considered, been taking a lot of grief from the trolls-that-be. But as I mentioned the last time we were at the Emirates, Gyokeres has a habit of scoring when I’m there. Jesus was ultimately substituted and Gyokeres was on the scoreboard within five minutes. First, from a pass from Kai Havertz where Gyokeres slipped and was literally falling down as he struck the ball. Second, from a Gabriel Martinelli breakaway. He broke quickly with the ball and Gyokeres, who is not a dainty, speedy man, somehow managed to keep up with him. Martinelli took on the goalkeeper and passed the ball to Gyokeres in front of the empty net. He buried it.

The match ended 3-0. I celebrated with my new friends heartily and quickly, then went to meet my husband by the Wenger statue outside.

Day trip to Oxford

Only one day of our visit appeared to have no rain in the forecast, so we used the opportunity to take a day trip to Oxford. Our train ride took about an hour. Now that we’ve been to both Cambridge and Oxford, I asked my husband which he preferred. He was solidly a Cambridge man. Had he grown up in the UK, I suspect both universities would have been happy to have him as a student. And, as for me, I suspect neither of them would. Nonetheless, I preferred Oxford. I liked the way the university buildings were interspersed throughout town. And at least the parts of town we were in seemed more livable and less touristy.

Ashmolean Museum. When we visited Cambridge we went to the Fitzwilliam Museum, which started via donation from Richard Fitzwilliam, an avid collector of antiquities and arts who had previously been a student at Cambridge. The Ashmolean is Oxford University’s counterpart, started with donation from Elias Ashmole, also an antiquary. In my judgment, the Ashmolean is like the Fitzwilliam on steroids. We spent most of our time in the the antiquities collection, covering ancient Egypt, Greece, Europe, Cyprus, and more. A lot of artifacts from a lot of graves. It was interesting and overwhelming. We also visited the Cast gallery, containing replicas of statues and sculptures. Finally, we raced through the art exhibit. We were fully museumed out by that time.

John le Carré Exhibit at the Bodleian Libraries. Upon arriving at Oxford we signed up for a tour of the Bodleian Libraries, but had some time to kill before it started. We were pointed to a free exhibit called John le Carré: Tradecraft. John le Carré was the nom de plume for a former Oxford student, David Cornwall, who is known for novels about spies. The exhibit contained information and artifacts of his meticulous practice of research, original manuscripts, letters. The pen on his desk at the time he died. Very interesting.

Bodleian Libraries Tour. The Bodleian libraries are Oxford’s system of 23 libraries holding millions of books and source materials, with a goal of holding at least one copy of every book published in the UK, among other items. The tour goes to only one of the libraries, the “Old” library, famously used in filming scenes in the Harry Potter movies and the home of some very ancient books. My husband and I have seen zero of the Harry Potter movies between us and were probably the only people on the tour over the age of 30. So well over the age of 30, they were careful to warn us in advance how many steps we’d need go up and down on the tour. It was no problem. We could have done it with our carry-on bags! 🙂

Anyway, we started in the Divinity school where they were working on a project to capture in 3D all of the “bosses” (decorative figures) in the ceiling so they can be recreated and appreciated up close. There were several samples available for us to look at and pass around. At Oxford the room was used for students to complete oral exams. In the Harry Potter movies, it was the infirmary. Now you can rent it as a wedding venue.

The tour also went to the Duke Humphries library, the oldest library holding the oldest books. This area of the library was used in the Harry Potter movies as the Hogwarts Library. Interesting to hear about the history of the library and the books it holds. Also, it was just a cool, dark space. Exactly what you would imagine a very old library to be.

Christ Church College and Meadow. Christ Church College (part of Oxford) is also the site of some Harry Potter scenes. We chose not to tour it officially but walked over to look at the building. Impressive building and pretty gardens around it. It’s next to a big, pretty park called Christ Church meadows. The path around the park was pretty muddy from all the rain but we enjoyed walking over to the river.

Theater

The Play that Goes Wrong. Every time we’ve looked at plays we might go see in London, this one has been playing. In fact, it’s been running in London for more than 10 years. While we were planning our trip we came across relatively cheap tickets and decided to go this time.

What to say about it? It’s a slapstick comedy about a play for which very little goes right. The set and characters break down in sometimes obvious and sometimes unexpected ways. I found myself smiling at the antics on stage but not really laughing. In full disclosure, many people in the theatre were screaming with laughter. At intermission we briefly considered leaving the play and the couple seated to our right actually did not come back after intermission. I had noticed they, too, had been pretty quiet during the first act. We did end up staying and felt the second act had been more interesting. I guess not every play is for every person. A fun evening but one I probably would not choose again.

The Spy Who Came in From the Cold. Visiting the le Carré exhibit in Oxford piqued our interest in this play inspired by a le Carré novel about a seasoned spy who is convinced against his better judgment to take on one final mission during the Cold War. The staging was interesting, the characters were memorable, and the message was depressing as hell. Basically, even the people who mean well–and there are very few of them–can’t be trusted.

My husband and I both loved it and recommend it highly. Unless you love slapstick. In that case, go see The Play that Goes Wrong.

London Attractions

Sir John Soane’s Museum. My husband has a friend who really loves this museum but for one reason or another we had never been to visit. This time our hotel was so close it was a very convenient stop for us. Sir John Soane was an 18/19th century London architect who designed and built his own home to house and display a massive collection of ancient artifacts and art he acquired over his lifetime. The house is now a museum. There was very little emphasis in the museum about the artifacts themselves. With only a few exceptions, you could not tell where he had acquired them or what they were. The emphasis was on how he had designed the house so that he could best enjoy the artifacts and art he had acquired. My favorite part of the house was an area in the basement called the Monk’s Parlour. Soane created this space in his house as if for an imaginary monk he named “Padre Giovanni,” and enjoyed visiting the room when, monklike, he wanted seclusion of his own. A very worthwhile visit.

London Transport Museum. This museum covers the history of transportation in London, including horse-drawn vehicles, use of the Thames, early train travel, and how the Underground came to be. The story of the Underground was particularly a focus and quite interesting, covering not just the technical creation of the system itself, but also how it was an impetus for advances in use and techniques of visual design, and how it influenced and was influenced by immigration patterns in London. My husband and I enjoyed this tour very much. Public transportation is exclusively how we get around in London and it was interesting to take a deeper dive into something that is so much a part of your life. To visit the museum you have to join as a member, but an annual membership is quite reasonably priced even if you only visit once. My husband is a frugal man. I suspect we will amortize our membership by visiting again before the year is over.

Natural History Museum. Whenever we look into attractions we could visit in London, this museum is one that is often recommended. I guess because natural history doesn’t seem very “London specific” we’ve never put this one at the top of our list. But on this trip we decided it was a good place to be on another rainy day and arrived at opening time. This museum is free to visit, with donations encouraged. We enjoyed the dinosaur and fossil exhibits and spent a fair amount of time in the extensive exhibit on minerals and treasures. It’s a very good natural history museum and on the “London-specific” front it bears mentioning that many explorers and students of natural history, including those who posited natural selection and evolution, were Londoners. Their influence is visible throughout the exhibits. Even though we arrived at opening time, the museum was absolutely packed with people. We left without seeing everything, but with an appreciation of what we might re-visit at some point in the future.

National Portrait Gallery. Although we’ve been to the National Gallery several times, we’ve never before stopped into the National Portrait Gallery. There was something that seemed boring about it but then I was reading at some point about a special exhibit on Marilyn Monroe, which for some reason piqued my interest. Although that exhibit hasn’t started yet, we decided to stop by the National Portrait Gallery. As a side note, while finding the restrooms, we happened upon The Portrait Restaurant at the top of the museum. The view of the city from there is amazing! Must plan to have a meal there at some point.

We started our visit at the top of the museum, in the gallery devoted to the Tudors from the 15th century, and worked ourselves down to modern portraits. I’m not sure why this never interested me in the past but I found the portraits fascinating and beautiful. Each era reflecting the people living at that time and the style of portraiture popular at the time. People’s faces, captured by an artist, are pretty awesome.

Frameless. We’ve been wanting to visit this art experience for a while but it just never worked out. In advance of visiting, I figured this is the kind of experience for people who really don’t quite have it in them to “understand” art. And although I have spent lots of time visiting art museums, I freely admit this is me in a nut shell. We were able to visit Frameless on this recent trip and I have to say that if you want to fully appreciate and experience art, this is the place for you. You might even enjoy it if you already are able to appreciate art.

The exhibit includes several galleries that you can enter. Each gallery covers 8-12 different famous paintings in a series. As you enter the room you are more or less inside the art. All four walls, the ceiling, and the floor are covered in the art which is animated to evoke, in some cases, how the painting may have been created, or imagines what was happening before and after the scene of the painting was captured, or how the patterns of a painting might be changed or animated to create alternative art. In some cases you can interact with the art and it reacts to your movement. The displays are accompanied by beautiful music. We found it peaceful, moving, and very worthwhile.

Museum of Freemasonry. In a post long ago, I described visiting an old pub called the Freemasons’ arms near Covent Garden, which happened to be the site where the rules for soccer and for rugby were originally codified in 1863. The pub was not the original pub but built on the same spot. We went there and had a pint while watching some international rugby on TV. There is a lot of stuff around London about the Freemasons and we noticed that near our hotel this time there was a Museum of Freemasonry. We stopped by to see what it was all about.

The museum covers the history and some of the artifacts of the Freemasons, which started in the middle ages as trade groups of stonemasons and evolved over time into an organized brotherhood of members from many walks of life and professions. Members wear all kinds of recognizable insignia, which we had noticed on people passing by on the sidewalk near our hotel. However, they do have secret rituals, which naturally were not covered in the museum. I found the whole concept to be kind of odd and realized that the same is true of many organizations. To belong, you need to do very specific things, believe very specific things, and own very specific objects. My favorite part of visiting the museum was visiting the gift shop which is not necessarily so that a visitor to the museum can buy things but so that members of the Freemasons can buy things on their path as Freemasons. Books, ties, jackets, badges, cuff links and so forth.

In Summary

In all, a wonderful week in London. Two nice Arsenal wins, a manageable level of tension. A lot of fun seeing the sights of London and Oxford. Some new, fun restaurants and more Fullers pubs.

Since our trip, a lot has happened for Arsenal. We only tied Brentford, who we should have been able to beat handily. We destroyed Wigan in an FA cup match. Then we dropped points at what should have been a very winnable game at Wolves. Even though it ended as a tie, when I think it, I think of it as a loss. Then we demolished Tottenham away. More recently, we struggled but ultimately beat Chelsea at home and Brighton away.

The matches are coming at a furious pace. Arsenal is alive in four competitions but nothing is coming easily. Winning the Premier League is looking harder and harder, although we marginally hold on to our superiority in points over the rest of the field. Hanging on for dear life.

There is another set of multiple matches in a week happening in London soon. Airfare for that week is is outrageously expensive. We don’t have tickets for any of the matches. We failed in the ballot for the Everton match at home on the 14th and haven’t been lucky in the exchange. We just balloted for the Champions league match against Bayer Leverkusen on the 17th, but won’t hear whether we were successful until a few days in advance of the match. And tickets for the Caribou final at Wembley against Man City on the 22nd are at an unbelievable price point. There are thousands of tickets available at a reasonable price in the Man City section and no tickets in the Arsenal section below a thousand dollars. If money talks, supply and demand suggest that Man City fans find the Caribou Cup final a boring imposition. I hope that translates to a positive Arsenal result. Not only to have a trophy for our troubles but also hopefully to kick on some much needed energy for the rest of the season.

I also hope something good happens–drops in airfare and luck in the ballot/exchange–that will allow us to experience that week of soccer, live in London. Fingers crossed!

AI, I dropped that last set of em dashes just for you. Do me proud.

On a clear day

Amy O3 Comments

With the rain in the rear view window, we woke early and visited Cafe St. Pierre for breakfast. I had the “French breakfast” which was the croissant of your choice, a baguette with butter and jam, and a “bowl” of coffee. I thought maybe they just meant a large cup, but they really did mean a bowl. I had to lift it up and slurp it like a cat. (I hope that is what I was meant to do.) Lot of carbs in that breakfast but we had an active day planned.

Shower Report for the day: After the hotel invested a bit of time evaluating and fixing the prior day, water heat was by now a bit of a lottery. My husband won the warm shower and I won the lukewarm one. Steps in the right direction.

We took the train from Canterbury’s other station, Canterbury East, to Dover. It was quite a beautiful ride through cute towns and forests on a nearly empty train.

You should probably never judge a town by the appearance around its train station, but Dover seemed surprisingly gritty. We searched out a Welcome Center, which turned out to be associated with the Dover Museum and Bronze Age Boat Gallery. My husband was familiar with the bronze-age boat on display and asked about it in the Welcome area. They invited us to head up and see it on the top floor of the museum.

The boat was found near Dover in some sludge in 1992 during a construction project. Later evaluation determined it to be about 3,500 years old, the oldest boat ever found in the world. The original boat is displayed in a giant glass case. It’s in unbelievably good condition. As with many archeological finds, the discovery of this boat adds to our understanding of how humans lived many years ago and what they were capable of.

The exhibit included displays of bronze-age tools such as may have been used to build the boat. Because the boat was missing the back end, it also included an exhibit on how archeologists have built theories for what the back of the boat may have been like. I thought that was super interesting. Interesting to experience the thought process of curious and knowledgeable people.

My favorite exhibit walked through an exercise that had been completed after the boat was found. A modern team attempted to replicate how the boat was built using bronze-age tools. They were able to build a replica of the boat (part of which is in the museum) in 6 weeks. In theory, the original builders probably were more familiar with the tools and boat building and could have completed it more quickly. But, in a bit of shade thrown by the people replicating the process, they concluded that, in part, it took them the long 6 weeks also because they also tried to provide beautiful finishes which the original team had not. That also provided clues as to the use of the boat. It was utilitarian and probably not ceremonial. But it certainly stood the test of time.

From the Welcome Center we walked over to the harbor and up the shore until we reached where the path is accessed to go up on the famous cliffs. The harbor is a functional harbor from which a number of huge ferries left or returned from trips over to France. It is not a beautiful stretch and sits right next to an extremely busy road. There are some cute cottages as you seek the path but they do not have a pretty view.

We climbed up and up the path. The wind was whipping but with the steepness of the path I became overheated pretty quickly. I stopped to remove my raincoat to finish the rest of the climb. On a clear day it’s possible to see France across the channel and we could make out the outline in the distance. In fact, we were close enough to France from the cliffs of Dover that T-Mobile sent me a text welcoming me to France and explaining the rates for texts and calls.

We were starting to be in a space that was far more beautiful than gritty. We could see the beautiful white cliffs, rolling hills, grazing sheep, the Dover castle. Even the harbor, which had seemed so industrial near the bottom, was pretty as we got higher on the cliffs.

At some point we had to make a decision about taking the high road or the low road. Our choice lead us very close to the edge of the cliffs. Although I’ve done a lot of Colorado hiking and skiing in my life, I’m not super comfortable with heights and I sensed my husband was also not so comfortable near the edge. We did all right and ultimately came to the part of the path that’s not so “out there.”

Our destination on the trail was the South Foreland Lighthouse. To reach it you go through a field of giant cattle. On the first floor of the lighthouse there is a cute little tea shop called Mrs. Knott’s Tearoom. It has a limited selection of items but who cares? It has cream team, which as we know means scones and clotted cream. It was served in lovely china in a beautiful room. It was a delicious way to celebrate the mid point of our hike.

We intended to go to Dover castle after our hike and, while we could see the castle from the cliffs, there is really no way to get to it without leaving the cliffs. So we hiked back down and then walked up a different hill, more or less in town, to get up to the castle.

If you may remember, my husband hurt his back on our last trip to England and it was not healed for this trip. He was able to do most things, but I tried to help with his luggage on stairs from airport to tube to hotel and carrying our shared backpack on our trips around Kent to try to preserve his ability to tour. He was still using heating belts to keep his back limber.

We had already walked more than 16,000 steps and 111 floors (so says Apple) and I felt maybe we could admit a small defeat and take a cab up to Dover castle. My husband would not hear of it. I’ll admit I was cursing his not-good-at-that-moment name as we climbed up the new hill. The fact is, we won’t always be able to do what we used to be able to do in the way we could do it. I hope over time we’ll be able to adjust our travel to fit our bodily realities and not have to stop travelling just because we can’t do it the way we used to. i.e., we may not always be able to hoist our luggage up and down stairs of stations on the Piccadilly line. Admittedly the cab in this case was for me as much as it was for him. I was pretty tired.

Now I’ve exposed you to the key conflicts in our household at the start of my retirement. My husband worries about spending too much money and I worry about losing our health while pushing to do things our bodies may be on the verge of no longer being able to do. My husband, the one with the sore back, seems to feel that he is not getting any older physically. In fact, this morning (a few weeks after this trip) he told me my feelings about aging are “a self-fulfilling prophesy.” I’m pretty sure our bodies will themselves fulfill my prophesy and, you know, “My Body, My Self,” so I can’t argue with his statement even though I suspect it will go down a bit differently than he intended with that turn of phrase.

But–this time–we made it to the top and made some quick calculations of what we’d be able to do at the castle. We were running out of time and it turned out there was a lot more to see and do at the castle than I had realized. This was not just another medieval castle (although it also was that), this area was used to protect England during modern wars also. Assuming it is ok to consider the World Wars as “modern.” There was also an very old church on the site. I think it would be easy to spend a full day at Dover castle.

We decided to hit the church and the medieval castle and skip the “modern” wartime tunnels, fire command post, underground hospital, etc. It was a tough call because those things looked very interesting.

The St. Mary in Castro church was built around 1500 years ago, probably on the site of a much earlier church. It apparently was a building that was not affected like other churches by the boring people coming in and demanding that color be removed. It had beautiful, colorful tiles in walls and ceilings, in addition to lovely windows. It’s a functional church. We had very little information about it as we toured, but it was lovely to be in. Next to the church sits a Roman lighthouse that’s been converted into a bell tower. Pretty cool.

We explored the castle proper. Although a building of some sort was in place during the Roman occupation and was damaged and rebuilt following the Norman invasion, the medieval castle as it exists now formed under Henry II, who we met yesterday as the person responsible–accidentally or intentionally– for Thomas Becket’s death. We walked through the external walls and the grassy enclosure and then through the keep. It was quite large with several floors to explore.

The way the castle was exhibited with representative but somewhat cartoonish furnishings was quite a lot like the castle at Norwich we toured last month. Similar set-up geared well for kids to explore. This castle was in much better shape, though. Because it was before Halloween, what the kids seemed most interested in in the castle was a worker dressed up for Halloween like a witch.

My favorite part of the castle was he views from the roof. It was unbelievably windy up there but you could see all over town, out on the country side, over to the cliffs. Beautiful.

We made our way down the hill again with sheep visible grazing in the moat of the castle. Our next destination was the rail station. We had decided to take the train to Deal, which we had not been able to visit as planned on our recent trip to Sandwich. The plan was to see Deal and have dinner before heading back to Canterbury where my husband was hoping to join his Italian language class online.

However, by the time we arrived in Deal we had new learnings about the train schedule and our time was going to be much shorter than we had originally understood. I had found a restaurant close to the station with acceptable ratings that also looked like it might make for a quick dinner, The Lane. It was early for dinner and there were very few people in the restaurant. Upstairs there was a Wicked-themed birthday party going on and the sound system in the restaurant was playing “For good.”

You may have noticed from my recent reports of what I’ve eaten in various places, except for breakfast, I’ve been leaning toward soups and salads. It was that point of traveling when your body demands vegetables. But when I sat down at the table at The Lane and reviewed the menu, my body demanded, of all things, a hot dog. And chips.

As you know, I live in the suburbs of Chicago, and what Chicago is known for, in addition to deep-dish pizza, is hot dogs. And I love a hot dog with everything that a Chicago dog normally comes with, except sport peppers. Tomatoes, relish, celery salt, a dill pickle spear, onions, mustard. Never ketchup. If you ask for ketchup in Chicago you will be abused. Sport peppers are a little too spicy for me and I’m in danger of having a sneezing fit when I eat them. Then it just becomes a Whole Thing. I remember ordering hot dogs in the Chicago Loop at lunchtime when I was working downtown. I would always say “Dog with everything except sport peppers.” And the worker would always repeat back my order, “Dog with everything, extra sport peppers.”

I digress, big time. The “classic” hot dog I ordered at The Lane was not a Chicago hot dog, but instead had on it ketchup, mustard, pickles, and “crispy onions.” As it arrived at my table I noticed it was HUGE. I figured I could manage about half that. I didn’t take a picture of it because it was just a hot dog. Then I took a bite. It was messy but the most amazing and yummy thing I’ve eaten for a while (this on a day I had scones and clotted cream). Maybe it was the crispy onions that made it so good? Maybe it was just a better quality hot dog? Maybe I was just really hungry after so much walking? I changed my mind and took a picture of part of it. My husband seemed to enjoy his tacos as much as I did the hot dog. And I did eat the whole thing.

As we were leaving, we asked the server if she had suggestions about what we should do if we had only 20 minutes in Deal. The thing she could think of was a local bar with a two-for-one drink special. I know she had just witnessed us eating our meal in a hurry and that may have made an impression, but I don’t think I could do two drinks in 20 minutes. In any case, we were not up for the challenge.

We thanked her and walked 5 minutes to the shore, took in the shops along the street next to the shore and the pier.

Deal is a cute little town, worthy of more than a 20-minute tour some day. But we had a train to catch and an Italian class to attend back at our temporary home in Canterbury.

Canterbury Tales

Amy O2 Comments

We woke to a raw, wet day, endured the cold showers I mentioned in my last post, and then walked several blocks to the highly recommended Refectory Kitchen for breakfast. We made a point to sit far from the door and were quickly served a much-needed warm drink. My husband had a dish called “Green eggs and ham” (green because of pesto) and I had a French toast with blueberry compote. Great way to start the day.

We steeled ourselves and walked through the rain in our practical footwear over to the Canterbury Cathedral. We’ve seen a lot of Cathedrals lately and I know that, to some people, they start to be all alike. While it may be true that many parts of the physical cathedral are similar to others, what I usually find so interesting is the unique history of the people connected with the Cathedral. The Cathedral at Canterbury has a notably colorful history. We used the audio tour available and found it interesting and useful.

Canterbury Tales by Geoffrey Chaucer includes imagined stories of pilgrims who traveled to Canterbury Cathedral. I read parts of it either in high school or college and, although I’ve forgotten so much from many books I’ve read, the details in some of those stories are still fresh in my mind.

People made the pilgrimage to Canterbury in homage to Thomas Becket. Thomas Becket had been a nobleman and friend of King Henry II who was made Archbishop Of Canterbury. Kings and archbishops had great power over the subjects and King Henry II had reason to believe that by installing the like-minded Becket he would be able to exert more influence on the church. But as soon as Becket was made Archbishop, he began to go his own way to the great frustration of the king.

What happened ultimately is in dispute. Henry II either A) sent soldiers to kill Becket or B) said something innocuous that made the soldiers incorrectly believe they were being sent to kill Becket. Regardless of Henry II’s actual intent, the soldiers went to Canterbury and killed Becket inside the Cathedral.

Now martyred, he was named a saint by the Pope. And although pilgrims previously trickled to Canterbury Cathedral, Becket’s martyrdom and subsequent canonization turned that trickle into a deluge. Becket’s remains are buried in the cathedral and formerly could be viewed by visitors who were willing to pay for the privilege. I believe that is not possible today. (Maybe I should have displayed my crypto.)

The site where Becket was murdered is commemorated with some art that includes representations of the swords of the soldiers.

I’m a sucker for the cloisters in a Cathedral. It was still dark and rainy when I stepped out and took these photos which I think made them feel even more alive. You can just picture hundreds of years of monks coming and going.

My husband and I also loved the area called the Chapter House, which served as a place where monks learned the rules of the order. The carvings in the ceiling are gorgeous.

In the crypts, the sculpture called Transport is especially interesting. Created by British artist Antony Gormley, it’s made of nails from the Cathedral formed in the shape and size of a typical human body. It hangs from the ceiling using wires or strings. Photos aren’t allowed in the crypt but I found a picture of the sculpture online here. My husband enjoyed the display in the Water Tower that described how ink was made back in the day and also included a pocket sundial.

There is only one monarch entombed in the Cathedral, Henry IV. His uncle Edward, referred to as the Black Prince, is entombed close by. The Black Prince has an inscription on his tomb: “Such as thou art, sometimes was I, Such as I am such thou shalt be.” There is a lot more gory detail in the inscription, but that’s a good summary. You’re no different from me. The end is coming and you can’t avoid it.

As with all Cathedrals, there are some beautiful stained glass windows as well as some very plain windows that were forced into place during periods in history in which the powers that be disliked color in church and got rid of it. Or that had been removed to protect them from bombing in World War II and then had to be painstakingly reinstalled. Or that had not been removed and had been bombed and replaced. I particularly enjoyed the windows created by the Hungarian artist Ervin Bossanyi that were installed in 1960 and commemorate themes around World War II, salvation and peace.

We took a lunch break at a cute Mexican restaurant called Cafe des Amis du Mexique. I had a salad that was so yummy I’ve tried to recreate it at home. Don’t quite have it right as of this writing. I really enjoyed the papier mache art on the walls by Total Pap, which was available for sale.

With the rain now stopped, we took a short walk along the River Stour.

Our final serious destination for the afternoon was the Canterbury Roman museum.

This museum is built on the site where a Roman floor mosaic was unearthed by a public works drainage modernization project. Later, work to excavate rubble from World War II bombings exposed further elements of a Roman home on the same site. These elements are encased and visible for viewing in the museum. Prior to the section of the museum that contains the Roman house, there are interesting exhibits about Roman history in England and Roman life. By the time you get to the excavation site, you feel awfully darned smart about the Romans.

We ended the day with a nice walk through town and along the river and dinner at the oldest pub in Canterbury, the Parrot, dating back to the 1400s. Pretty cool place for a pint.

All the single ladies

Amy OLeave a comment

I’ve found that when I travel I’m drawn to certain themes and narratives. When I was working in software the themes were often around how projects came about. In software, a big project is usually completed through a series of smaller projects that can involve multiple teams and stages toward the desired end. How that comes about can be quite complicated and is part of why I found my job interesting.

So while traveling and touring I’m drawn to the project aspect of anything. Last week, I was at the Gustave Caillebotte exhibit at the Art Institute of Chicago and especially enjoyed looking at the methodology for completing his projects, how his trial sketches were a key part of the process of producing the final painting. I remember touring the iconic Sydney Opera house years ago and learning that the design for the Opera house was based on an artist’s rendering. After it won a competition, architects had to figure out how to build it somehow. It was a project in which there was a tremendous amount of trial and error toward producing the artist’s vision. Kind of the original Agile project. In this trip around East Anglia, one of my favorite parts of the audio tour for the Ely Cathedral was a representation of the stages of building across close to a thousand years. Every hundred years or so a big project would happen. What made me laugh when reviewing the time lapse representation of the build timeline was the times they would add something in one century that in the next century they would remove. Human nature. One man’s innovation is another man’s mistake.

In this trip, one of the themes that was present in my mind was the impact of women across East Anglia. Don’t get me wrong: history always includes the stories of men, and in our touring of cathedrals and museums there were plenty of male historical figures of note. But the history of East Anglia introduced me to several interesting and notable female figures.

The first one was Etheldredra, important in Ely. Ultimately, she became the founder and abbess for a monastery in Ely in the 7th century, the land on which The Ely Cathedral was later built. But before that she was a king’s daughter and was married off to an elderly king. The audio guide at the cathedral tells us that her husband died before they could consummate the marriage. It says she married a second time, different king, and was released from that marriage since she was still a virgin.

A lot to take in and it made me curious. For one, when I heard about the first marriage in the audio guide, I had the impression that the first husband must have died quickly after the marriage. But other sources indicated they were married for several years. Some sources claim that the deal that was made prior to both marriages–which had been political in nature–that she would be permitted to remain a virgin.

Apparently her second husband came to regret that deal many years in, which led to the marriage being dissolved.

To doubly prove that she really, really was a virgin at the end of that marriage, the audio guide tells a story of her walking stick sprouting leaves overnight.

Interesting that it was an acceptable deal in both marriages that she would remain a virgin when the marriage was presumably for political reasons. The tale of Henry VIII communicates that producing an heir–about 900 years later–is a very big expectation for a royal wife. A lot must have changed in the ensuing years.

Anyway, by today’s standards, kind of a weird origin story for a woman who ended up doing something very, very important when she was allowed to stop getting married off and fulfil her longtime dream of starting an abbey. As an abbess she was highly influential and successful, both in life and after her death, after which she was officially sainted.

The buildings Etheldreda was part of building were destroyed and rebuilt in subsequent centuries. The Ely Cathedral was built on the land starting about 300 years after Etheldreda died. Coincidentally, the monastery at Ely–by then a Benedictine monastery–was closed down by Henry VIII himself.

Another woman we became re-acquainted with in Norwich was the mystic and theologian referred to as Julian of Norwich. We had encountered some of her writings when we visited the British Library exhibit Medieval Women: In Their Own Words a few months ago. In the 14th century, Julian wrote the first English language book known to have been written by a woman. Very little is known about Julian, including whether Julian is even her name. She was an anchoress–a religious devotee who lives in a cell–in St. Julian’s church, and her understood name may have come from the church itself. She was inspired to write two versions of a book titled Revelations of Divine Love following an illness in which she was close to death and experienced visions relating to Christ’s death. The first version was written shortly after she recovered from the illness and the second one, much longer, after many years of intellectual and spiritual exploration. Her manuscripts were preserved for 200 years before being published. Although she claims in her writings to be uneducated, her work continues to inspire theologians even in our time. Famously, she posited that God is much like a mother. Our guide at the Norwich Cathedral quoted some famous words of the book that she found comfort in: “All shall be well, and all shall be well, and all manner of things shall be well.” Julian is commemorated in stained glass in the Norwich Cathedral we visited. Note in the picture the woman on the right pane carrying a book.

Photo from Norwich Cathedral web page

Moving on many years, we quasi-encountered Edith Cavell who was born at the end of the 19th century. As we were walking for the first time from the Norwich train station to The Maids Head I saw a pub named The Edith Cavell. Then once we checked in to The Maid’s Head, on the way to our room, there was a meeting room labeled The Edith Cavell Room. I asked myself “who is this Edith Cavell?” She sounded familiar but I couldn’t remember why. It turns out she was the daughter of Norwich-area clergy and had an increasingly interesting nursing career that presumably started either because experienced a failed romantic relation OR because she helped her father through a serious illness. Or both. Her nursing took her into teaching and administration and allowed extended travel in Europe. She was notable as a nurse in the first World War for treating war wounded from both sides but ended up running afoul of the Germans for aiding the escape of more than 200 soldiers from Belgium. She admitted her “guilt” and was executed at age 49 by a German firing squad. She showed virtually no fear leading up to her death, glad to die for her country and with her soul at peace. Her body is buried outside the Norwich Cathedral.

And finally, we encountered Edith Pretty, the woman responsible for sharing the Anglo-Saxon treasure of Sutton Hoo with the world in the mid 20th century. Born into a wealthy family, she became deeply interested in archeology and, with her husband, purchased the Sutton Hoo property on which the burial mounds were located. (Interesting side note: before her marriage she, too, was a nurse and served in Belgium in the first World War.) Although many people believed the mounds had already been robbed, as indeed they had been, she was convinced that they contained additional treasure. After her husband passed away, she hired a local excavator, Basil Brown, to explore the site further. He is often credited with the find, as he should be, but the excavation occurred only because she was willing to invest toward the work. She waited patiently for the coroner inquest that would rule on who had rights to the treasures, rejected rewards from the crown for gifting the property, and as soon as it was clear it was hers to dispose of as she wished, she donated all artifacts to the British Museum to add to our understanding of the Anglo-Saxon culture and be enjoyed by everyone. Like our other women, Edith Pretty was a Boss.

It occurred to me that every one of these women became known for what she did when she was single, regardless of how she came to be that way. Perhaps being single contributed to their being able to pursue a deep-seated interest given the times in which they lived. You have to admit we are looking at a very long period, more than 1000 years, in which it seems true that it has been quite difficult for a married woman to pursue the kind of work that speaks to them as a person, unless that work happens to be taking care of family. (I do note that some of these “jobs”–like being in a monastery–just require being single.)

To be clear, we know about these women because they became famous. In my mind, fame is not the object for most of us. The object is being able to do work that interests one greatly.

And as much as I note that women have made progress since Edith Pretty’s death in the 1940s, it seems there are still forces that hold us back. In fact, forces that existed in the past that were briefly weakened seem lately to be coming to greater strength.

Ominously, women leaving the workforce at high rates. Although unexplained, some factors believed to be involved include rapidly increasing cost of child care and the newly growing wage gap between men and women workers. Removal of women from government positions under a new regime, where the claim is that they are insufficiently qualified. And my social media feeds over the summer included a video in which a well-known male operative, leading seminars for young women, encouraged them not to work or attend college. Or if they attended college not too work hard at it. Ok to pursue “an MRS degree,” where you are only attending college to meet eligible bachelors. Indeed, ready yourself for a life of servitude where you take care of family and be subservient to your husband, the boss of your family. Sorry for the bad luck of the accident of your gender.

As a recent retiree from a job I loved I’m so thankful for the period in time in which it’s been possible as a woman to pursue interesting work. My fervent hope for all women is that one is not required to be single or childless to be able to freely choose and grow in an occupation. That women be judged on their objective merits instead of assumptions about people of your gender. That when partnered, their partners support their self-actualization, just as they support the same in their partners.

I bet all the single ladies of East Anglia agree.

New territories, Norwich edition: part 2

Amy O1 Comment

With the rain more or less behind us, we had breakfast at the hotel and then took the train to Melton. The Melton train station has the best butcher shop I’ve ever seen….and very little else. We walked along a narrow sidewalk very close to a busy thoroughfare for 15 minutes to arrive at Sutton Hoo. We initially learned about Sutton Hoo from the Netflix movie called The Dig. The movie tells the true story of how one of the most significant archeological finds in England–an Anglo-Saxon burial ground–came to be discovered. For perversely quick and hopefully not inaccurate history from a touring American, Anglo-Saxons migrated to England starting in the 5th century A.D., about the time the Roman occupation was coming to an end. The find provided a new picture of how Anglo-Saxons lived. They had been much more sophisticated than originally believed.

Sutton Hoo was property owned privately by a woman named Edith Pretty that, after her death, was gifted to the National Trust. You can visit the site and walk the property, including into her home and to the location of the burial mounds. There’s an observation tower near the mounds so you can climb up and look down at the mounds. A displayed map on the observation tower describes what was found in each mound. Edith Pretty’s home includes exhibits about her life and details about how the excavation project came about. There’s also a museum about Anglo-Saxon life on site. Outside of the museum, there’s a replica of one of the most interesting objects found in the mounds, the fossilized outline of a ship that was used to bury an important Anglo-Saxon leader. At Sutton Hoo, they seem convinced that the leader was King Readwald. The British Museum, which ultimately received most of the objects found in the mounds, including a famous war helmet believed to belong to the person buried, seems less certain. Pretty’s gift of the artifacts to the British Museum came after a coroner’s inquest into the ownership of the artifacts found on her land. As soon as the inquest established that she alone had rights to the artifacts, she gifted them for all to enjoy.

The property is beautiful, rolling hills, wild grasses and flowers. We explored a path through and near the property trying to find the River Deben, which is what the Anglo-Saxons are believed to have used to drag the ship to the burial place. We got to where we could see it but there are a number of beautiful and gated private properties blocking access.

After visiting Sutton Hoo and returning to the train station, we headed to Ipswich. Like Norwich, Ipswich’s football stadium is also near the train station. It’s quite nice from the outside. We walked to the city center and searched out a place for lunch, settling on the highly rated Blends Coffee House. Cute on the outside and kind of rough on the inside, with a menu far too big for the size of the shop, we were pleasantly surprised by how good everything was. I had a pot of tea (third day running, really enjoying this habit) and a BLT. English bacon is really different from bacon in the U.S. and I love it. It’s a bit more like U.S. ham. To be clear, I love all bacon, the English way or the U.S. way. I could easily be vegetarian, except bacon. I guess I would have to be a vegebacontarian. What was so so good about the BLT was the artisan bread. Not to go all crazy about a BLT, but it has long been my belief that what is important in a BLT beyond the quality of the B, the L, and the T is the right proportion of each ingredient and the balance of mayo and bread. Theirs was just about perfect.

As we were paying our bill the person who waited on us asked if we were Canadian. Honestly….there are reasons I would like to pretend to be Canadian while traveling in Europe at this time in history. At all times, America’s relationship with Britain is a bit complicated. But the week we were there, our President was also, and that brings feelings to the fore. But we were honest and that led to a general conversation about why we were in England. We asked if he was an Ipswich fan and he ran to the back of the kitchen to bring out his coffee cup bearing the logo of his favorite team. It was Port Vale. We laughed because that’s who Arsenal was to play in the Caribao Cup the week after we were there. (I am writing this more than a week after the trip; Arsenal ended up winning the match on Wednesday 0-2.) The other worker at the coffee shop was an Ipswich fan. We asked him about the rivalry with Norwich. He said “oh yeah–we hate them.” He was looking forward to the first match in a long time between Ipswich and Norwich. Both teams have been up from the Championship and into the Premier League and then back down to the Championship in recent years, but not at the same time. Both are in the Championship now.

After some good natured trash talking and some advice from the guys about what we should consider doing in Ipswich (they recommended nothing in Ipswich but had ideas about other places we should go in England), we went off to find baked goods. Ultimately, we found a chain called Cookie Barista. We walked back to the train enjoying the scenery and downing our cookies.

Back in Norwich, we made another visit to St. Andrew’s Brew House, this time to try some of their beer. It was Thursday, kind of a popular day for people to meet up with friends at the pub so a bit livelier than our last visit. We had the Anglo-Saxon amber. It was pretty yummy. We walked over near the Guildhall for an easy dinner at my husband’s go-to chain in England, Pizza Express. This one had a great view over Norwich and the market.

Our last full day in East Anglia was going to be a warm one. We took the train to Hoveton and Wroxham to enjoy the Norfolk Broads. The understood way to enjoy the Broads is to rent watercraft and tool around the Bure river. We found Norfolk Broads Direct and rented a motor boat for 3 hours. It was a September Friday so not too busy on the river, but they had a lot of boats available to rent and had plenty of competition from our boat outfits. I had zero confidence about driving the boat but my husband had full confidence. It was a bit hairy getting out of the dock area but he quickly became comfortable and we enjoyed looking at the beautiful homes along the river, the wildlife, and the scenery. You can only go a maximum of 5 miles an hour on the river so it was quite chill. When people rent for a whole day they are able to dock and go into little towns and pubs along the river. 3 hours was too short for us to do that, but we got a sense for the lifestyle.

We walked back to the train station in Hovetown/Wroxham to embark on our next adventure, a ride on the Bure Valley Railway up to Aylsham. We had to grab a quick lunch so we stopped at an establishment near the station called Fizz and Fromage. I saw they had BLT on their menu but it was not just “BLT.” It was “Famous BLT.” After waxing lyrical about the BLT in Ipswich, you know I was tempted. I really can’t explain how it is possible, but the BLT at Fizz and Fromage was the best I have ever had. By far. My husband was just as enthusiastic about his hummus and sourdough.

The Bure Valley Railway was a lot of fun. The train was pulled by a steam engine. It was not an old steam engine as we had believed when we booked but rather a new one. The whole railway was actually constructed in 1990. The train went through lovely country side, past villages and the Bure river, and sheep. We passed bikers and hikers using a path next to the tracks, and sometimes they passed us. We arrived in Aylsham and had about an hour to explore before returning by rail to Wroxham. Cute little town.

Upon our return to Norwich, we made one more stop at The Compleat Angler for a beer to celebrate our trip to Norwich. It was still so warm and nice we sat out on the porch over the lovely River Wensum. The flower boxes on the exterior of the pub were so pretty. Afterward we followed the path along the river as far as we could on our way back to the Maids Head. It occurred to me that you can see the Norwich Cathedral from many parts of town. I wondered what kind of impact that has on your living when your spiritual home is visible from most places you are.

The Norwich leg of our trip, including the ride back to London, looked something like this:

And our whole trip to East Anglia looked like the map below.

We saw and did a lot in East Anglia. Still, I’m left with the feeling that there is so much more to see and do.

Another time….

New territories, Norwich edition: part 1

Amy O2 Comments

One “downside” of the Anglia Plus Three-Day Ranger train pass was that you can’t use it before 8:45 a.m. This was a downside only for my husband. He is the early bird for whom the worm is waiting. For me, a consummate midnight oil burner, mostly because I’m too wound up at night to sleep, it meant very reasonable departure times each day. On Tuesday morning, we packed up our suitcases and rolled them to the Cambridge train station across from which we had scones at the bakery chain Gail’s. At the allowed time, we boarded the train to Norwich.

While on the train, we learned that the weather was going to be rainy on Wednesday across East Anglia so we made a quick change on the planned order of activities to take advantage of the rather better weather on Tuesday. Upon arriving in Norwich, we carted our luggage to our Norwich hotel, The Maids Head, and checked it at the desk. Then, instead of touring Norwich as planned, we went back to the train station and took a short trip to a seaside town called Cromer and walked the short distance to the city center.

Cromer was lovely. We walked though a charming district looking for where we might have lunch. At last we found a sign pointing from the main drag to a neighborhood for a restaurant called Browne’s on Bond Street. After consultation of very good online reviews we walked over. They were fully booked inside and offered a table in the garden. It was a chilly day but we were dressed for it and happy to have the table. I started with a pot of tea. Having tea was starting to become habitual away from London. My husband had the local dish of Cromer crab prepared kind of like a gratin and I had a tuna melt. Quite yummy.

After lunch, we wandered over to the seashore. The wind and waves were wild. A group of wet-suited surfers were having some great rides. We walked on the promenade along the shore and Cromer Pier. Our fellow wanderers included a lot of dogs who were enjoying the walk and the beach. We took a small detour back to town and The Craft Bakery in search of a baked good. I had a delicious Orange shortbread cookie and my husband had something called a white chocolate rocky road cookie which was kind of like a giant block of fudge. (It was so good that on a later date on the trip my husband said “maybe we should go back to Cromer for a cookie?”) We had to work that off, so back to the beach and to a very cool miniature gold course on a bluff above the ocean.

The planned activity for the evening was to watch Arsenal’s first round Champion’s League match against Athletic Bilbao. It was being played in Spain rather than home. Upon returning on the train to Norwich we had to nail down a pub option where the match would be televised. We’ve found using internet search engines to produce unreliable results, so we made an insurance stop at the pub we’d chosen to make sure. It was on the way from the Norwich train station to our hotel. Sure enough, The Compleat Angler intended to televise the match. After quickly checking into our hotel we doubled back to the pub where a kind bartender had reserved us a table.

It was a pretty interesting match. Manager Mikel Arteta selected the same forward line and the same back line as for Nottingham Forest but obviously had to make a decision about what to do in the midfield in the absence of Martin Odegaard. He’d been re-injured in the Nottingham Forest match and didn’t even take the trip to Spain. In the Nottingham Forest match Arteta had replaced Odegaard with 18-year-old Ethan Nwaneri and he did quite well, but in this match he chose Declan Rice along side an unchanged Martin Zubimendi and Mikel Merino. That Declan Rice did NOT start against Nottingham Forest was a bit of a surprise.

The atmosphere in Bilbao was nuts. That must be a wonderful place to attend a match if you’re a fan of the home side. Arsenal dominated possession for most of the match but struggled to produce a goal. Eberechi Eze, who was so wonderful against Nottingham Forest really struggled in this match. Noni Madueke continued to impress. Viktor Gyokeres struggled and, in the second half, also took a blow to the head that produced a big gash that was taped up. Lots of tape. He was ultimately removed, replaced by Leandro Trossard, as was Eze, replaced by Gabriel Martinelli. Good changes that sparked something in Arsenal. About 70 minutes into the match, the Athletic keeper kicked a ball into Arsenal’s defensive half which we cleared out to the halfway line. Trossard dinked it over the defender, perfect for Martinelli to run on to. Keeping two defenders at bay he slotted it under the Athletic keeper into the net. Later Martinelli returned the favor, driving toward the left corner and passing to Trossard who’d made great movement to open up space. Trossard’s shot bounced off a guy’s foot and into the goal. The match ended 0-2, not a bad outing.

Meanwhile, beer and dinner for us.

The weather forecast had been accurate. Rain had started early on Wednesday and our new plan was to see Norwich during that rain. Our hotel was very close to a historic area in Norwich called Elm Hill. Like all “Elm” hills in all the world, there are very few remaining Elms due to Dutch Elm disease, but there are cool cobbled streets and interesting old buildings.

We stopped for breakfast at a place called Olive’s. Mostly traditional British fare. I had a Benedict that had hash browns in place of the usual English muffin. My husband had the veg version of a traditional English breakfast: eggs, sausage, baked beans, bubble & squeak. We had long heard about the thing called “bubble & squeak” but never had it and did not know what it was. Our helpful server pointed it out on the plate and explained it. It’s kind of like hashbrowns but includes cabbage. It was pretty delicious.

Because it was very rainy by this point, we took our tour inside to the Norwich Cathedral. This cathedral is not quite as old as the one in Ely but it’s old, 900 years worth. We were given a wonderful 1-hour tour of the cathedral by an enthusiastic, elderly volunteer and member of the active church since childhood. Not only did we learn about the very interesting history of the cathedral, she pointed out interesting details, like ancient graffiti, the cool glow from the McClean stained glass windows that were installed in 2014, the misericord in the choir that’s intended for the assistant dean and includes a carving of the Norwich Canaries football team logo, and the amazing 12th century Despenser Reredos that was protected and preserved from destruction allegedly by hiding it as the bottom of a table. We also heard about the cat called Budge that lives in the Cathedral and unofficially serves as the Bishop. Budge did not make an appearance while we were there.

Following our tour we walked near the city center for lunch at an Italian restaurant called Yard. Freshly-made pasta with delicious sauces. I had the Pappardelle with 12-hour beef shin ragu and my husband had Bucatini cacio e pepe. I followed mine up with this crazy and amazing dessert that was a croissant filled with salted caramel ice cream. Oof. Very delicious lunch.

We walked by the beautiful medieval Guildhall and art deco City Hall City Hall and walked through the cool Norwich market. It was a bit late so many stalls were closed but enough was open that you got a flavor for the diverse products on offer. Spices, wine, prepared food, produce, clothes.

Our last big stop for the day was at the Norwich Castle. This was kind of a crazy, interesting experience. It is a museum that’s built in and around the ruins of an actual Norman castle. The castle was started by order of William the Conqueror in the late 11th century and was only briefly and very occasionally used by a monarch. It also was used as a jail. Where the museum can include the actual remnants of the castle it does; where it cannot, it includes recent building intended to help depict what the original castle looked like. When you stand within any one room you might see one original wall (it’s very clear which one that is) with three new walls that help you imagine what it must have been like. You can also go to the rooftop to see the defensive structure. From the rooftop, I could see all the sights we had seen that day.

We did a quick refresh at our hotel after visiting the castle and then went back over to the Norwich Cathedral for the Evensong service. Our guide from the morning had told us that the Cathedral had had Evensong services every day for the last 900 years. One of them included us. The music was quite beautiful, from a choir of adults and children.

After the service, we went to dinner at St. Andrew’s Brew House, so named because it’s across from a church called St. Andrew’s. A bit comical since they were out of almost everything we wanted to order for dinner. We were together able to cobble something together that worked.

Norwich surprised me. I’m not sure what I expected but it was not that. Such a great city! We thoroughly enjoyed our time there.

No one likes us

Amy O1 Comment

Although we weren’t able to do much London stuff in this visit, we did have Saturday gloriously open for fun around town.

Sadly, storm Darragh, which caused rain and winds all over the UK that day, wanted her say. So we made two plans that were respectful of her and one plan that ignored her completely.

It was pouring rain in the morning but we stepped out with our most rain-resistant shoes and umbrellas and went to the highly-rated local diner, Peter’s Cafe, for breakfast. It was nothing fancy but I had a perfectly delicious, basic, and reasonably-priced breakfast of eggs on toast with a latte.

After that, we went over to the Gunpowder Plot Experience close to the Tower of London. This is a tourist attraction whereby you participate with a group in simulating the attempted coup of 1605 on King James by Guy Fawkes. It’s a combination of interactive theatre and virtual reality. Not our usual thing! It was a lot of fun, albeit a part of history I’ve spent zero time thinking about. We played the part of Catholic co-conspirators. My favorite part of the experience was the virtual reality. It’s not that it felt actually real, but it produced some interesting effects and sensations of being there. With virtual reality, we flew over the city, took a boat over to Parliament, saw the aftermath of the attempted coup.

After that nice, dry activity we took the bus over to Millwall’s stadium, The Den, to take in some Championship football. We’ve attended a Championship match in the past at Fulham after they had dropped from the Premier League and before they came back up. Championship matches offer a grittier, and some say purer, experience than the Premier League. Whatever. We just wanted to go.

Millwall currently sits in the bottom half of the Championship and was playing on Saturday against Coventry City. It was very easy to get good tickets because of the expected bad weather and probably that thing I said about “the bottom half.”

Coventry City was even bottom-er in the Championship, and only recently started being managed by the villainous Frank Lampard, formerly of Chelsea. The fans at The Den seemed particularly annoyed by the presence of Frank Lampard. One guy near me shouted at him and insulted him the entire match. There is no possible way Frank Lampard heard a word of it, so far away were we and as windy and rainy as it was. Maybe Frank will read this and know the truth.

The chanting is a bit different at Millwall than at the Emirates. The chant we understood best went something like this:

We are Millwall
No one likes us
We don’t care

It was a bad day for Millwall and good day for Frank Lampard. Coventry City ended up winning the match 0 – 1. It was his first win as the manager of Coventry City, we learned the next day.

We took the bus over toward our evening activity and stopped nearby at a nice pub, The Royal Standard. Beer for my husband, mulled wine for me. Fish & chips for him, Avocado & Mango salad for me. Brownie for him, Apple, plum & Damson (don’t ask me) crumble for me. Very delicious, and a nice atmosphere.

Our final activity of the day was Edwyrdian Tales’ Christmas Ghost Stories at Charlton House. Charlton house is a 400-year old former manor house, so a great setting in which to hear three old ghost stories. For me, it was only two ghost stories, for, as good as the program was, I was exhausted from a long week and being in the cold and rain for hours (and maybe the mulled wine had something to do with it). I slept like a baby during the first tale about Jerry Bundler. Well refreshed from my nap, I thoroughly enjoyed the next two ghost stories, “Smee” about a haunting that occurs while people are playing a game at a holiday party and “The Kit Bag,” where a lawyer is emotionally haunted both by his involvement in a trial for a horrific murder and actually haunted by something in the bag in his room. The stories were performed by a single actor, writer, and historian Matthew Wood, who did a wonderful job transporting us to a time in which these stories would have been very popular. Great atmosphere and great stories, well told.

It was good to get out into London at last before heading back to Chicago.