My flight into Heathrow arrived later than normal because flights were pretty expensive. I ended up booking a flight that connected through Dublin. The extra leg was welcome because it allowed me a bit more sleep before getting on the Tube. I often fall asleep on the Tube from Heathrow to wherever our hotel is, but usually my husband is present and awake to be part of ensuring we get off at the right stop. Not this time. Although he, my son, and I kept trying to get tickets for the match even after I booked my flight, no tickets materialized.
I held off booking my hotel until two days before I departed since we were hoping my son and/or husband might make it. Do you book a hotel for one, two that are married, two that are not married, or three? I ended up hedging and selecting something appropriate for two that were married, a room at The Exhibitionist, a tiny, somewhat kitschy hotel in Kensington close to the South Kensington Tube stop. Easy access to the airport and on the same line as the Arsenal stop, albeit not super close to the stadium. Great neighborhood we’ve been in a few times and it worked well for me. They checked me in immediately upon arrival and I took the opportunity to take a short nap before showering. A full bath with both a tub and a separate shower, and the rain head was serious about my cleanliness.
I’d booked cheap groundling tickets to A Midsummer Night’s Dream at Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre for the evening. Good activity to do on your own, reasonably priced so you can bag it if you’re too tired or the weather is bad. This is a comedy in the star-crossed lover genre and one I know pretty well. It’s probably one of the more accessible Shakespeare plays and very popular among park theatre productions.
It was a Sunday evening and although the play was well-attended, it was not incredibly crowded either. The Globe does a great job of involving the audience to keep things fun and interesting and they outdid themselves on this occasion. Before the play even started, they had the audience singing in rounds, practicing dance steps, and reciting sections from various Shakespeare plays. The groundling section was mostly populated with young people who were happy to participate and, once the play began, seemed to really enjoy it. The play was fun and well acted, but being in a really engaged audience made it even better. The actors occasionally brought members of the audience onto the stage to perform various roles and everyone had a wonderful time.
The play started relatively early and ended at dusk. The walk back to the Tube over Millennium Bridge was particularly nice. There were very few people out on a Sunday evening and I was surprised to be able to hear the birds calling as I walked over the bridge and enjoyed the views to St. Paul’s Cathedral and the Shard.
Sleep was somewhat elusive that night (reference the afternoon nap described above). I had made plans for Monday in light of the match in the evening and the fact my husband was not with me. Visiting gardens is probably not at the top of his list, but I figured that would be fun for me. A few months ago, I had watched a movie on Netflix called Dare to be Wild, based on a real, past participant in the Chelsea Flower Show named Mary Reynolds. I won’t pretend to know everything that happens in the Chelsea Flower Show, but part of it includes a landscape competition. Mary Reynolds had a big idea and applied to enter the competition. Her idea was selected to be built out and the movie was about all the problems she had to overcome to bring her vision to fruition, and win. Anyway, the Chelsea Flower Show was days away from my visit and therefore not a possibility, but an event that takes place starting in advance of the flower show is “Chelsea in Bloom.” During this festival, many shops in the Chelsea neighborhood decorate their storefronts with floral displays. This year, around the theme, “Out of this world.”
I had decided to spend some time visiting Chelsea in Bloom, but my bad night’s sleep had me out in Chelsea much earlier than I originally planned. This was a good thing and a bad thing. Chelsea in Bloom started that day and some shops were still just working on their displays when I went through. To the good, though, I was able to enjoy most of the displays before the crowds set in. Most of the displays used real flowers. Not only were the displays beautiful and sometimes just fun and creative, I enjoyed how different shops interpreted the theme. There was a lot of outer space influence, as you might expect, but sometimes “Out of this world” was interpreted as out of the world of England. For example, there was a floral exhibit of cactuses. And sometimes it was interpreted as imaginary creatures, like unicorns and mermaids. It was so lovely and fun to see how people walking to work or to school were reacting to the displays. Everyone seemed so happy.
After walking all through Chelsea I decided to revisit Fortitude Bakehouse, a bakery near Russell Square my niece had told me about that I visited once last year. Famous for their cream-stuffed beignets that aren’t available until 11 a.m. It’s lunch! Fortitude was not really close to my hotel or Chelsea in Bloom but whatevs. I had time on my hands. Today’s flavor was pistachio and raspberry. Half of one would be plenty, even for lunch, but I took mine into a pretty park and ate the whole thing. With tea to wash it down. Delicious. Not health food.
I stopped by the hotel for a quick nap (yes, making a habit of this on my short trip to London) and then set out for a nearby garden called Kyoto Garden in Holland Park, a few Tube stops and a short walk from my “home” Tube station, South Kensington. Kyoto Garden was a small, peaceful, and lovely Japanese garden. I enjoyed visiting the “Dutch garden” as well. Not much was blooming there but it was very nice, with orderly plots.
I headed back to The Exhibitionist for a quick change into my Arsenal jersey. It brings good luck. And we need everything to go our way. Including, but not limited to, luck.
Our trip to London to take in the Fulham match (and hopefully the Atletico Madrid Champions League semifinal match), was oddly dominated by David Bowie and water. That, and clicking in the Arsenal exchange every spare moment for a ticket to the Atletico match. My husband’s childhood friend was in London at the same time we were, so we also had fun catching up with him.
David Bowie had been a minor character in my teen world. I knew some of his music, most notably Space Oddity, a rock ballad about an astronaut who goes to the moon, but something goes wrong and he floats away, never to return to Earth. That particular song, a line from which I’ve borrowed as the title of this post, was initially released in 1969 but was re-released in the United States in 1972. Other versions have been released since then, but it’s the 1972 version I’m familiar with. Something about that song really captured my imagination. In my interpretation of the song, Major Tom decides not to go back to earth and enacts his ship’s malfunction. Apparently that is not how David Bowie saw it. Major Tom floated hopelessly away in his broken spaceship.
My interpretation is better.
I remember one of my high school classmates declaring “David Bowie is so gross.” I didn’t know enough about him to have an opinion but I had seen pictures of him and knew he did something very few men did at that time: he sometimes wore makeup and clothing more commonly associated with women. I was living in a conservative area of the country, but there is probably no place in the world that despises individuality and demands conformity more than high schools of the 1970s.
I had really loved Queen in high school. Funny now that I think of it that David Bowie would possibly be “gross” but Queen was A-ok. Bowie’s music took a turn that intersected more with my mainstream sensibilities in the early 1980s. I loved the collaboration he did in 1981 with Queen’s Freddie Mercury, Under Pressure. It’s still one of my favorite songs. And later it rubbed me the wrong way that Vanilla Ice’s Ice Ice Baby started with the same musical hook. (I feel more inclined to forgive Vanilla Ice now that Arsenal fans use Ice Ice Baby as the base of a chant to honor Declan Rice. Rice Rice, baby.)
David Bowie exploded into the mainstream with Let’s Dance in the early 1980s. I had moved to Denver after college and was working, but didn’t yet have enough money or income to buy a car. I was carpooling with one of my colleagues every day. He was the first openly gay person I’d ever known and often he would cajole me into accompanying him to one of the gay bars in our neighborhood before he dropped me off at my apartment. So many handsome men. None of them interested in me, other than as a human. It was pretty sweet. Let’s Dance and Modern Love were big hits on the dance floor. I think that’s where I decided it’s always ok to dance alone. And was the start of me thinking everybody just wear what you want. Be who you are. Try out stuff until you’re clear. Even you, David Bowie. (And I think he would say “No shit. That’s what I did.”)
Anyway, that is a long preamble to our visit to the new David Bowie exhibit in London called You’re Not Alone at Lightroom, a “multimedia spectacle” that will “transport visitors into the iconic performances and creative mind and spirit of one of the world’s most visionary and influential artists.” It reminded me of Frameless, the interactive art exhibit we visited when we were last in London.
After a brief introduction to a life timeline for Bowie, you enter a large auditorium-like room, the walls, ceiling, and floor being used to project images, video, artifacts supporting narrative about how and why Bowie created as he did. I guess it’s technically a documentary but creatively delivered and very well done. There’s very little I enjoy more than being immersed in creative process, and David Bowie left behind exceptional records about his work that were the basis of the presentation. And it did include Space Oddity in full, which allowed for some interesting visual effects.
We found that so interesting that we made a point on a different day to head over to V&A East and V&A East Storehouse, new extensions of the Victoria & Albert Museum.
At V&A East we visited fascinating exhibits on “Why we make,” focused on the impulse to create and the process of creation. Not merely creation of art, but furniture, clothing, housing. I have found the Victoria & Albert museum in Kensington to be overwhelming, but the V&A East is very, very manageable and no less interesting. Bonus: it has a patio with a great view of the area where the Olympic stadium is. Which, by the way, is currently the home of West Ham. Arsenal were to be playing West Ham at London Stadium the weekend after we visited. We made sure to walk over and spread our Arsenal cooties all around the ground after visiting the exhibits.
The V&A East Storehouse is a short walk from V&A East. I’ve never seen anything like this. It’s literally a storehouse for objects owned by the Victoria & Albert, but not currently on display in the museum. Except it’s the fanciest Storehouse you’ll ever lay eyes on. It’s a museum-like storehouse. You can walk around and look at the objects, which we did.
You can also visit a special area devoted to David Bowie. The David Bowie Centre is a permanent archive for David Bowie’s possessions that was given to the V&A. It contains a small exhibit that includes some iconic costumes worn by Bowie, objects he owned, and a narrative and artifacts about how some of his music was written (including hand-written starts at several songs, including Space Oddity, which was written almost like a play). It also includes archives of interviews, articles, reviews that are not on display but can be accessed upon request. He must have understood his own importance or he would never have retained all that stuff. And I guess he was right about his importance or the V&A would not now have it. Great exhibit.
Space Oddity tells us “planet earth is blue,” and we understand it’s blue because of the water on its surface. Our visit to London, coincidentally, included several water-related activities. The River Lea lies between the V&A East and London Stadium and there’s a place on the edge where you can rent a swan boat. Along with a bevy of school-aged kids, we decided we needed to do that. We discovered that swan boats are just the right size for me to peddle at 5′ 2″ and completely wrong for my husband at 6′ 2″. After a very short trip down river, we crossed this activity off our list.
On one of the days we were in town there was a boat festival, the IWA Canalway Cavalcade, near something called “Little Venice.” Having seen Bangkok’s version of “Little Venice” in January, I wasn’t expecting much that resembled Venice. Although the one in London did not, in the end, look at all like Venice, it was very charming and fun to see all the houseboats gathered together. There were many vendors and activities for the kids and we enjoyed walking along the canal on a nice day. My husband noticed that you can take a boat from Little Venice over to Camden so we hopped aboard and enjoyed the scenery for the 45-minute ride.
We also did a walking tour of the hidden River Fleet. This is a river that once visibly flowed through early London but became nasty, dirty, stinky and was covered with roads in the 1700s. It’s now, more or less, a sewage canal. Once before we had tried to find the headway for the river, but with construction near it along the Thames it’s impossible to see. But you can “see” and hear it underneath streets in parts of London.
Tourist taking photo of picturesque River Fleet.
We did a few things that have nothing to do with David Bowie or water, but do take place on Planet Earth. We visited the Somerset House for the 2026 SONY World Photography Awards exhibit. The exhibit included entries by amateurs and professionals in various categories, including portraits, landscapes, still life. I have no idea how they picked winners. It was all so good.
We also went over to an event called Sicily Fest. This was in a big hall in Islington, and held a bunch of vendors selling Sicilian food and drinks as well as a very popular Sicilian band. We attended a church service at Southwark Cathedral, home of Hodge the cat, who indeed was wandering around during the service and stopped by to sniff my husband.
And, as always, we found ourselves in a number of Fuller’s pubs. In my favorite experience, on the first day we were there, we really loved the glasses the Sutton Arms served our London Pride in. They had a depiction of the Thames that was very cool. We asked the bartender if it were possible to buy one. He said “Just take one. We have so many. And they always just walk away, especially with people drinking outside.” We were not quite in the sticky fingers frame of mind. While we sipped, ate a very delicious pizza, and watched the world go by through a large, open door, I googled how easy it would be to buy a glass. We found that Amazon could deliver such an item to us in the UK but not in Chicago. We enjoyed our beer in those beautiful glasses and left them behind. Here’s hoping enough will be retained by the London pubs for us to enjoy one again on a future trip.
As we were circling the Emirates in advance of the Fulham match, I overheard a conversation between several Arsenal fans walking behind us. They were discussing how they plan to view the last match of the season, which will be played away at Crystal Palace. The conversation took on tones of people imagining winning Power Ball: How would they spend all that money?
The impact of our losing against Bournemouth and Man City two weeks prior had put a giant dent in our title hopes which had been looking great for most of the season. Technically, if Man City were to win all their matches and Arsenal were to win all our matches, we would be tied on points earned. The league winner would then be decided by tie breakers, first being goal difference, second being goals scored. As of the time of the Fulham match, Man City and Arsenal were tied on goal difference but Man City had a higher number of goals scored. And in Arsenal’s match the prior weekend, at home no less and against in-a-world-of-hurt Newcastle, we had barely eked out a winning goal. It was pure torture to watch. And, needless to say, was not a harbinger of needed goals galore. Meanwhile, Man City looked to be turning into a magnificent machine as they so often do in the Spring. Depressing stuff.
So this conversation on which I was eavesdropping outside the stadium seemed particularly fanciful. The most hopeful fan was telling his friends he imagined he would watch the last match of the season between Arsenal and Crystal Palace at a pub in North London so he could experience it with Arsenal fans. And if Arsenal were winning by many goals, he would hop on the Tube and head over to Crystal Palace’s stadium, Selhurst Park. Because, as he explained it, “I know I can’t be in the grounds, but I would have to be there.”
My husband and I hadn’t been successful in the ballot for tickets to the Fulham match but then were eligible to look for tickets on Arsenal’s ticket exchange. I had felt confident we would be able to get tickets for this match and we had done the unthinkable, booking nonrefundable air tickets and hotel before we had any match tickets. With a million clicks I was able to find tickets the day before we travelled to London. Interesting that there had been so much angst online about Arsenal’s prospects for the Premier League among presumed fans (Bottled again!) while at the same time, fewer ticket holders than usual were selling tickets and a greater number of people were wanting to buy them. The market for tickets speaks more softly then the internet but methinks it tells more truth.
I could understand the feelings of my overheard compatriot in wanting to be ready in case the good thing we’ve all be dreaming of looked like it might imminently happen. While I was not quite ready to imagine planning that final day of the season, I was certainly charmed by the sentiment. I could see him outside Selhurst Park in the cool of the early evening, maybe his pint glass still in hand, looking up at the stadium lights, and smiling at the sound of cheers inside the stadium. Dreams fulfilled.
Using the exchange means my husband and I were not sitting together because you really can only get one ticket at a time. Both of our seats were in the club section in the North Bank, but mine were in the West corner and my husband’s were in the East corner. I was in my seat in time to see Arsenal’s pre-match sendoff for Per Mertesacker, our intrepid former defender who’s been in charge of Arsenal’s youth academy since he retired from playing. Always loved that guy. He, Laurent Koscielny, Nacho Monreal, and Hector Bellerin formed the last really excellent defensive line I can recall until recent years.
I wondered if the stadium would erupt with the chant we’d used for him. He did reference it in his short remarks, calling himself a “Big friendly German” instead of the word starting with “F” we actually used, very lovingly. Although there usually is no hesitation on our part about flinging out some pretty rude chants, for some reason the one we used for Per only 10 years ago felt a bit culturally inappropriate now. Anyway, if the chant was only sporadically sung during the presentation before the match, he got a big round of applause for the good work he’s done with the Academy.
Three of the Academy’s protégés featured for Arsenal in the Fulham match. Mikel Arteta reached into his wildest dreams and determined that Academy alumnus Myles Lewis-Skelly would start in midfield, something that only almost happened in (I think) an FA cup match earlier this year. On that occasion Myles instead ended up replacing Riccardo Calafiori at left back when he was injured in the warm-up. That replacement was not fully unexpected: Myles made his big breakthrough at 18 years old last season at left back when Calafiori had a long-term injury. Myles was very, very good at left back. But this season we’ve not seen him much in any position even though he’s mostly been healthy. Other players have been preferred even though Calafiori has been injured a lot. Somehow Myles has not been giving Arteta what he wants to see. Football qualities aside, Myles seems to be of very different character than Arteta as well. I wonder if he rubs him the wrong way. A bit of a show boat. A trash talker. New Arsenal player Martin Zubimendi has been the preferred choice in midfield for most of the season, but he was a substitute on this day.
Bukayo Saka is also a product of the Academy and we were pleasantly surprised to see him in the starting lineup after a lengthy period out with an achilles strain. He’s been playing a few minutes from the bench for the last few weeks. We’ve seriously missed his influence in attack. And wunderkind Max Dowman, still a part of the Academy at 16, was on the bench as a substitute.
It turns out that Fulham has several Arsenal Academy alumni as well, which is one of the reasons I have a small affinity for Fulham. Alex Iwobi was out injured for this match but Emil Smith-Rowe was named as a starter. These players left Arsenal at different times, both after playing for a few years in the senior team and both under circumstances that have not damaged Arsenal fans’ high opinions of them. In particular, Smith-Rowe has Favored Son status. He was an integral part of Arteta’s early teams that showed sparks of an exciting future to come. Unfortunately, he’s experienced many injuries and is not the player he once was, or promised to be. Even at Fulham, he is often used from the bench and starts mostly when others are injured. Fulham also have goalkeeper Bernd Leno, who formerly played for Arsenal. The other reason I kind of like Fulham: they long had American star Clint Dempsey before he briefly went to the Dark Side, Tottenham, and then to the MLS.
In any case, I put my “small affinity” aside. Today Fulham is my mortal enemy.
In addition to the surprise of Myles Lewis-Skelly at midfield and Bukayo Saka starting at all, Mikel Arteta had put together an unexpectedly swashbuckling lineup. This match was sandwiched between two Champions League fixtures and it seemed today’s lineup was designed to protect and rest players who would be in the next leg of that competition only a few days from now.
If swashbuckling was the intent, Arteta got more than his money’s worth. This was probably the most exciting and inventive Arsenal I’ve seen for a while. Myles Lewis-Skelly was masterful, kept everything ticking. Riccardo Calafiori and Eberechi Eze were chaos merchants. Bukayo Saka and Leo Trossard brought bite to our attack we haven’t had for a long time. Viktor Gyokeres, who has taken so much shit about his technical skills and goal contributions (which actually are pretty darned good), fought all day and delivered good build up play, better than I’ve ever seen from him. Declan Rice, Ben White, William Saliba, Gabriel, and David Raya were all excellent.
And the Emirates was rocking. So, so loud. In these times when the team isn’t doing so well and the fans are a bit depressed, you often hear pundits and podcasters asking something to the effect of “is it the players job to excite the crowd or the crowd’s job to excite the players?” I’m glad no one was navel-gazing on this question when I was there. The players were doing the best they could and the crowd was doing the best they could. Whether they believed the other guy was doing his job or not.
I was sitting in front of an extremely loud fan. He was so off-key and so loud, you just wanted to join him. And maybe cover him up a bit. It was not easy. His funniest bit was in chant commonly sung by Arsenal fans over the past 3-4 years. The chant goes like this:
We won the field at Anfield
We won it at the Lane
Stamford Bridge, Old Trafford
No one can say the same
We’re in Arteta’s army
We’re Arsenal through and through
We’ll sing it in the North Bank
And in the Clock End too
Allez allez allez (repeated a bunch of times)
At some point over the last few years, fans altered the second line slightly: “We won it at the Lane – TWICE!!!”
And this guy behind me added one more new thing. After we sung “We’re Arsenal through and through” he shouts “Where do we sing it?” Well, you know the answer. “We’ll sing it in the North Bank and in the Clock End too.” Such a dumb little thing. It made me smile every time.
Arsenal’s first goal came pretty quickly. A pass from Lewis-Skelly to Saka, and Saka left the Fulham defensive marker on his backside on the grass. He sent the ball across the goal to an onrushing Gyokeres, who tapped it into the net.
There were many chances after that that didn’t produce goals that stood (Calafiori had one in the back of the net that was called back because he was offside) but it was all so fluid and beautiful no one seemed too fussed about it. About beer-thirty when fans need to get out to the concourse before halftime to be in line and slam one before the second half starts, Gyokeres ran onto a through pass from Eze and passed to Saka, who was dividing two defenders with his run toward goal. There was no stopping Saka: he fired it near post. 2-0.
I may be imagining this but I felt that goal riveted many a beer-loving person to their seats. They were quickly rewarded. Trossard broke down the left side and made a looping cross to the waiting forehead of Gyokeres. It’s said he’s not a particularly proficient header of the ball but he did ok this time. 3-0 by the time the first half whistle blew. I had been hugged and high fived dozens of times by my peers in the North Bank.
The scoreline gave Arteta freedom to make subs and get rest for players returning from injuries. As a result, the second half was quieter. There were fewer chances for Arsenal and more for Fulham. Unfortunately, Fulham’s Emil Smith-Rowe went down at some point, injured. But he is really our Smith-Rowe. We sang the chant we used when he was an Arsenal player as he limped around the field back to the tunnel. I feel for this talented player who just can’t catch a break physically. My fervent wish is that he ultimately has a path like Eberechi Eze, back to us in good health and with hard times behind him.
We held on and so did Fulham. 3-0 at the end.
We celebrated with a few songs from the DJ and then I ran out to meet my husband by the Arsene Wenger statue outside. It was a very cheerful walk over to Arsenal station, my compatriots singing at top voice.
As we changed trains at St. Pancras Kings Cross a fight nearly broke out between a few Fulham and Arsenal fans as the Fulham fans sang “Bottled again, Bottled again, Bottled again, olé, olé.” Even people who just saw their team destroyed 3-0 felt free to taunt us. Luckily, peace managed to prevail.
I wish them no ill will in–where are Fulham?–11th place. And these men, probably living in their mother’s basements. Cozy.
Man City wasn’t scheduled to play until Monday, two days on. We would hold the lead in the League at least until then.
Supposedly you can tell when something you’re reading was written by AI. For example, I’m told that AI exclusively uses the “em” dash. An em dash is a longish dash, supposedly about the length of an “m.” (In contrast with an “en” dash, which as you might guess is a bit shorter in length about the length of an “n.”) When you use Microsoft Word, when you type two dashes followed by a letter, it turns into a single em dash, but in some programs it appears like the two dashes you typed in. If you see something with an em dash, presumably that’s AI.
The fact is, I’ve long used the em dash. And if the em dash is considered so rare that only AI regularly uses it, I have to presume it’s because AI is (are?) a voracious reader of my blog.
It’s good to have readers, human or otherwise. I’ve long understood that this blog is kind of a weird one. It’s not really a sports blog, not really a travel blog. I write about the matches we attended but don’t really analyze them. I might describe a play or exhibit we attended but I don’t really critique it. Although I used to blog during a trip, I haven’t done that for a while. I’ve concluded that no one who visits here is unaware of the result of the match and waiting breathlessly for what I have to say about it.
Also, when I blog while traveling the whole thing seems performative. Like I need to do things specifically and only to entertain you. A few months ago I was watching the Netflix movie about Gabby Petito, the vloger who was traveling with her soon-to-be-homicidal fiancé in a van across the United States and it confirmed for me my decision. Trying to be the center of too much attention is bad for you. (Well, it was bad for her, that’s for sure.)
My last trip to London concluded several weeks ago but on the day we flew back to Chicago I was feeling pretty bad. I knew my body was trying to fight off a cold or something like that for the last couple of days we were in London and was pretty sure it had failed in the fight by the Sunday we boarded the plane. When we got home I put a load of laundry in the washing machine and climbed into my bed for about a week. Fever, runny nose, no appetite. My ears started draining and my eyes were red and itchy. I decided to go to the urgent care clinic and see if antibiotics were needed. While I was there they noticed my blood oxygen was low and resting heart rate was high and decided to do a chest x-ray. That showed a mild case of pneumonia. Outfitted with all kinds of antibiotics, eye drops, an oxygen monitor, an inhaler, and many boxes of tissues, I got through another week after which I started to feel human again. I had thought over the past couple of weeks maybe my recent trip is one that I won’t bother to blog about, but now I’m feeling energetic and it was a good trip. So, a belated roundup.
Our hotel, the Middle Eight.
As many times as we have been to London and (mostly) attempted to stay in different hotels and neighborhoods, there are still quite a few areas we’ve never stayed in. Our hotel this time, Middle Eight, was located near Covent Garden. One of the things we loved about it was that it was very near the Holborn tube station which meant we could take the Piccadilly line from and to the airport and The Emirates with no station changes. Although we usually travel with just a carry-on suitcase, we usually do have to make some awkward Tube line changes, often involving forays up and down stairs. Also, having to change train lines at Kings Cross St Pancras on a weekday morning to go to the airport or on the night of a match can be tricky, with the big crowds involved. We found ourselves separated more than once when one of gets swept onto and the other away from the train when it arrives in the station.
But this time, no Tube drama at all. The Holborn station has only a few stairs to contend with and was rarely crowded. By the time we reached the station with big crowds we were comfortably seated on the train.
Besides the train benefits, the hotel was nice. It had what we needed, including being close to some nice restaurants and Covent Garden, a fun place to visit. On a particularly rainy night we chose to have dinner inside the hotel and it was quite nice.
The matches
Our attendance this particular week followed Arsenal’s first loss of the season at home, to what seemed an imminently beatable Manchester United. Along with the rest of the deeply nervous Arsenal fan base, we felt pretty deflated by the loss. All I can say is that having finished in second place for three seasons in a row, we are always feeling what we think is the other shoe dropping. As they say around soccer, it’s the hope that kills you. After the home loss to Man U, Arsenal did have a solid win away at Leeds before we arrived. Despite occasional setbacks, we continue to have the hope that threatens ultimately to kill us and hence we find ourselves in London.
Caribou cup semi-final vs. Chelsea. Of all the teams I despise, Chelsea is probably right at the top, but we’ve never before had tickets for a match against them. We were able to get tickets using the ballot. Although this competition might not be at the top of what we hope to achieve, I think Arsenal fans were happy to be challenging to get into the final.
The match was on a rainy, cold evening. I guess that can be said for almost every match in the UK this year. It’s been a weirdly rainy period. We arrived at the stadium ridiculously early during a quasi-break in the rain action. Craving warmth before the match, instead of drinking beer we took the unusual action of eating a giant basket of french fries/chips even though we had just had dinner. The stadium was nearly empty when we found our seats in the Northeast corner of the upper bowl. Our seats were well-covered, but looking at torrents of rain coming down and wind whipping around the stadium and feeling my wet shoes, I shivered for the full two hours.
Weirdly (for me), the shivering was not at all about the match. Unlike my usual demeanor, I felt so calm it was as if I had been drugged. The semi-final consists of two matches, the first one having been played at Chelsea earlier. Arsenal won that by a goal, which meant Chelsea had to win this match by at least two goals to get into the final. Someone must have failed to deliver that memo to Chelsea. When I saw the very defensive-looking Chelsea lineup come up on the screens in the concourse as we ate our chips, I thought “Is this a trick?” But they actually did set up–and played–as if they didn’t require any goals. Arsenal exerted very little effort other than to contain them, which we successfully did for 90+ minutes. Then the Chelsea player I dislike most, Marc Cucerella, made a bad pass under pressure, which was quickly turned into an Arsenal breakaway. Declan Rice made a beautiful, long pass to Kai Havertz, only recently back playing after a horrendous knee injury kept him out for close to a year. Havertz evaded the keeper and passed the ball into the net. Havertz is a former Chelsea player but apparently the statute of limitations on celebrating against his former team had passed. He happily pointed to the Arsenal badge. With Chelsea being unable to score, we were already through to the finals at Wembley, but we thoroughly enjoyed that goal. Mercifully, the rain was quiet for our very cheerful, loud walk back to the Arsenal tube station.
Premier League match vs. Sunderland. Sunderland is one of the three newly-promoted teams into the Premier League. For the past couple of seasons, the newly-promoted teams have usually found themselves relegated at the end of the season. The gulf between the Premier League and the Championship has just seemed too big. That is not true this season, however, and Sunderland, in particular, has taken to the Premier League quite well. Some of their success has been attributable to excellent talent acquisition over the summer, one of them being our former captain Granit Xhaka, who left Arsenal for Bayer Leverkusen a few seasons ago. He was out injured for this match, although he did attend the game.
My husband and I hadn’t been successful getting tickets for this match in the ballot, but I was so sure we would be able to get tickets on the exchange I convinced my husband we should stay in London for the whole week; to see the Chelsea match on Tuesday night and the Sunderland match on Saturday afternoon. I finally was successful getting my ticket a few hours before we went to the airport in Chicago. After thousands of clicks during the week in London, I was ultimately successful in getting a ticket for my husband the day before the match. Phew.
It was rainy for parts of the day but not bad close to match time. My husband and I had visited a few Fullers pubs in advance of the match and then took a quick turn around the Armoury before we went our separate ways outside the stadium.
The match was a lot of fun. There appeared to be a lot of “singles” in my section rather than people attending together who knew each other so we had to form our own environment together. Mikel Arteta had asked fans to provide a wonderful atmosphere for this match and we did our best. Arsenal started mixed, on the front foot sometimes, repeatedly followed by some serious danger on the other end.
Arsenal finally scored a few minutes before halftime with a lovely strike from distance by Martin Zubimendi. It hit the near post and flew across into the opposite side of the net. I was sitting about as far away as possible from that goal and, except for the roar of the fans in front of the goal, I would have thought it was behind the net rather than in it.
With Gabriel Jesus healthy again, he was given the start at striker instead of Viktor Gyokeres. Gyokeres has had a bit of a rough start with Arsenal and been taking a lot of grief from the trolls-that-be. But as I mentioned the last time we were at the Emirates, Gyokeres has a habit of scoring when I’m there. Jesus was ultimately substituted and Gyokeres was on the scoreboard within five minutes. First, from a pass from Kai Havertz where Gyokeres slipped and was literally falling down as he struck the ball. Second, from a Gabriel Martinelli breakaway. He broke quickly with the ball and Gyokeres, who is not a dainty, speedy man, somehow managed to keep up with him. Martinelli took on the goalkeeper and passed the ball to Gyokeres in front of the empty net. He buried it.
The match ended 3-0. I celebrated with my new friends heartily and quickly, then went to meet my husband by the Wenger statue outside.
Day trip to Oxford
Only one day of our visit appeared to have no rain in the forecast, so we used the opportunity to take a day trip to Oxford. Our train ride took about an hour. Now that we’ve been to both Cambridge and Oxford, I asked my husband which he preferred. He was solidly a Cambridge man. Had he grown up in the UK, I suspect both universities would have been happy to have him as a student. And, as for me, I suspect neither of them would. Nonetheless, I preferred Oxford. I liked the way the university buildings were interspersed throughout town. And at least the parts of town we were in seemed more livable and less touristy.
Ashmolean Museum. When we visited Cambridge we went to the Fitzwilliam Museum, which started via donation from Richard Fitzwilliam, an avid collector of antiquities and arts who had previously been a student at Cambridge. The Ashmolean is Oxford University’s counterpart, started with donation from Elias Ashmole, also an antiquary. In my judgment, the Ashmolean is like the Fitzwilliam on steroids. We spent most of our time in the the antiquities collection, covering ancient Egypt, Greece, Europe, Cyprus, and more. A lot of artifacts from a lot of graves. It was interesting and overwhelming. We also visited the Cast gallery, containing replicas of statues and sculptures. Finally, we raced through the art exhibit. We were fully museumed out by that time.
John le Carré Exhibit at the Bodleian Libraries. Upon arriving at Oxford we signed up for a tour of the Bodleian Libraries, but had some time to kill before it started. We were pointed to a free exhibit called John le Carré: Tradecraft. John le Carré was the nom de plume for a former Oxford student, David Cornwall, who is known for novels about spies. The exhibit contained information and artifacts of his meticulous practice of research, original manuscripts, letters. The pen on his desk at the time he died. Very interesting.
Bodleian Libraries Tour. The Bodleian libraries are Oxford’s system of 23 libraries holding millions of books and source materials, with a goal of holding at least one copy of every book published in the UK, among other items. The tour goes to only one of the libraries, the “Old” library, famously used in filming scenes in the Harry Potter movies and the home of some very ancient books. My husband and I have seen zero of the Harry Potter movies between us and were probably the only people on the tour over the age of 30. So well over the age of 30, they were careful to warn us in advance how many steps we’d need go up and down on the tour. It was no problem. We could have done it with our carry-on bags! 🙂
Anyway, we started in the Divinity school where they were working on a project to capture in 3D all of the “bosses” (decorative figures) in the ceiling so they can be recreated and appreciated up close. There were several samples available for us to look at and pass around. At Oxford the room was used for students to complete oral exams. In the Harry Potter movies, it was the infirmary. Now you can rent it as a wedding venue.
The tour also went to the Duke Humphries library, the oldest library holding the oldest books. This area of the library was used in the Harry Potter movies as the Hogwarts Library. Interesting to hear about the history of the library and the books it holds. Also, it was just a cool, dark space. Exactly what you would imagine a very old library to be.
Christ Church College and Meadow. Christ Church College (part of Oxford) is also the site of some Harry Potter scenes. We chose not to tour it officially but walked over to look at the building. Impressive building and pretty gardens around it. It’s next to a big, pretty park called Christ Church meadows. The path around the park was pretty muddy from all the rain but we enjoyed walking over to the river.
Theater
The Play that Goes Wrong. Every time we’ve looked at plays we might go see in London, this one has been playing. In fact, it’s been running in London for more than 10 years. While we were planning our trip we came across relatively cheap tickets and decided to go this time.
What to say about it? It’s a slapstick comedy about a play for which very little goes right. The set and characters break down in sometimes obvious and sometimes unexpected ways. I found myself smiling at the antics on stage but not really laughing. In full disclosure, many people in the theatre were screaming with laughter. At intermission we briefly considered leaving the play and the couple seated to our right actually did not come back after intermission. I had noticed they, too, had been pretty quiet during the first act. We did end up staying and felt the second act had been more interesting. I guess not every play is for every person. A fun evening but one I probably would not choose again.
The Spy Who Came in From the Cold. Visiting the le Carré exhibit in Oxford piqued our interest in this play inspired by a le Carré novel about a seasoned spy who is convinced against his better judgment to take on one final mission during the Cold War. The staging was interesting, the characters were memorable, and the message was depressing as hell. Basically, even the people who mean well–and there are very few of them–can’t be trusted.
My husband and I both loved it and recommend it highly. Unless you love slapstick. In that case, go see The Play that Goes Wrong.
London Attractions
Sir John Soane’s Museum. My husband has a friend who really loves this museum but for one reason or another we had never been to visit. This time our hotel was so close it was a very convenient stop for us. Sir John Soane was an 18/19th century London architect who designed and built his own home to house and display a massive collection of ancient artifacts and art he acquired over his lifetime. The house is now a museum. There was very little emphasis in the museum about the artifacts themselves. With only a few exceptions, you could not tell where he had acquired them or what they were. The emphasis was on how he had designed the house so that he could best enjoy the artifacts and art he had acquired. My favorite part of the house was an area in the basement called the Monk’s Parlour. Soane created this space in his house as if for an imaginary monk he named “Padre Giovanni,” and enjoyed visiting the room when, monklike, he wanted seclusion of his own. A very worthwhile visit.
London Transport Museum. This museum covers the history of transportation in London, including horse-drawn vehicles, use of the Thames, early train travel, and how the Underground came to be. The story of the Underground was particularly a focus and quite interesting, covering not just the technical creation of the system itself, but also how it was an impetus for advances in use and techniques of visual design, and how it influenced and was influenced by immigration patterns in London. My husband and I enjoyed this tour very much. Public transportation is exclusively how we get around in London and it was interesting to take a deeper dive into something that is so much a part of your life. To visit the museum you have to join as a member, but an annual membership is quite reasonably priced even if you only visit once. My husband is a frugal man. I suspect we will amortize our membership by visiting again before the year is over.
Natural History Museum. Whenever we look into attractions we could visit in London, this museum is one that is often recommended. I guess because natural history doesn’t seem very “London specific” we’ve never put this one at the top of our list. But on this trip we decided it was a good place to be on another rainy day and arrived at opening time. This museum is free to visit, with donations encouraged. We enjoyed the dinosaur and fossil exhibits and spent a fair amount of time in the extensive exhibit on minerals and treasures. It’s a very good natural history museum and on the “London-specific” front it bears mentioning that many explorers and students of natural history, including those who posited natural selection and evolution, were Londoners. Their influence is visible throughout the exhibits. Even though we arrived at opening time, the museum was absolutely packed with people. We left without seeing everything, but with an appreciation of what we might re-visit at some point in the future.
National Portrait Gallery. Although we’ve been to the National Gallery several times, we’ve never before stopped into the National Portrait Gallery. There was something that seemed boring about it but then I was reading at some point about a special exhibit on Marilyn Monroe, which for some reason piqued my interest. Although that exhibit hasn’t started yet, we decided to stop by the National Portrait Gallery. As a side note, while finding the restrooms, we happened upon The Portrait Restaurant at the top of the museum. The view of the city from there is amazing! Must plan to have a meal there at some point.
We started our visit at the top of the museum, in the gallery devoted to the Tudors from the 15th century, and worked ourselves down to modern portraits. I’m not sure why this never interested me in the past but I found the portraits fascinating and beautiful. Each era reflecting the people living at that time and the style of portraiture popular at the time. People’s faces, captured by an artist, are pretty awesome.
Frameless. We’ve been wanting to visit this art experience for a while but it just never worked out. In advance of visiting, I figured this is the kind of experience for people who really don’t quite have it in them to “understand” art. And although I have spent lots of time visiting art museums, I freely admit this is me in a nut shell. We were able to visit Frameless on this recent trip and I have to say that if you want to fully appreciate and experience art, this is the place for you. You might even enjoy it if you already are able to appreciate art.
The exhibit includes several galleries that you can enter. Each gallery covers 8-12 different famous paintings in a series. As you enter the room you are more or less inside the art. All four walls, the ceiling, and the floor are covered in the art which is animated to evoke, in some cases, how the painting may have been created, or imagines what was happening before and after the scene of the painting was captured, or how the patterns of a painting might be changed or animated to create alternative art. In some cases you can interact with the art and it reacts to your movement. The displays are accompanied by beautiful music. We found it peaceful, moving, and very worthwhile.
Museum of Freemasonry. In a post long ago, I described visiting an old pub called the Freemasons’ arms near Covent Garden, which happened to be the site where the rules for soccer and for rugby were originally codified in 1863. The pub was not the original pub but built on the same spot. We went there and had a pint while watching some international rugby on TV. There is a lot of stuff around London about the Freemasons and we noticed that near our hotel this time there was a Museum of Freemasonry. We stopped by to see what it was all about.
The museum covers the history and some of the artifacts of the Freemasons, which started in the middle ages as trade groups of stonemasons and evolved over time into an organized brotherhood of members from many walks of life and professions. Members wear all kinds of recognizable insignia, which we had noticed on people passing by on the sidewalk near our hotel. However, they do have secret rituals, which naturally were not covered in the museum. I found the whole concept to be kind of odd and realized that the same is true of many organizations. To belong, you need to do very specific things, believe very specific things, and own very specific objects. My favorite part of visiting the museum was visiting the gift shop which is not necessarily so that a visitor to the museum can buy things but so that members of the Freemasons can buy things on their path as Freemasons. Books, ties, jackets, badges, cuff links and so forth.
In Summary
In all, a wonderful week in London. Two nice Arsenal wins, a manageable level of tension. A lot of fun seeing the sights of London and Oxford. Some new, fun restaurants and more Fullers pubs.
Since our trip, a lot has happened for Arsenal. We only tied Brentford, who we should have been able to beat handily. We destroyed Wigan in an FA cup match. Then we dropped points at what should have been a very winnable game at Wolves. Even though it ended as a tie, when I think it, I think of it as a loss. Then we demolished Tottenham away. More recently, we struggled but ultimately beat Chelsea at home and Brighton away.
The matches are coming at a furious pace. Arsenal is alive in four competitions but nothing is coming easily. Winning the Premier League is looking harder and harder, although we marginally hold on to our superiority in points over the rest of the field. Hanging on for dear life.
There is another set of multiple matches in a week happening in London soon. Airfare for that week is is outrageously expensive. We don’t have tickets for any of the matches. We failed in the ballot for the Everton match at home on the 14th and haven’t been lucky in the exchange. We just balloted for the Champions league match against Bayer Leverkusen on the 17th, but won’t hear whether we were successful until a few days in advance of the match. And tickets for the Caribou final at Wembley against Man City on the 22nd are at an unbelievable price point. There are thousands of tickets available at a reasonable price in the Man City section and no tickets in the Arsenal section below a thousand dollars. If money talks, supply and demand suggest that Man City fans find the Caribou Cup final a boring imposition. I hope that translates to a positive Arsenal result. Not only to have a trophy for our troubles but also hopefully to kick on some much needed energy for the rest of the season.
I also hope something good happens–drops in airfare and luck in the ballot/exchange–that will allow us to experience that week of soccer, live in London. Fingers crossed!
AI, I dropped that last set of em dashes just for you. Do me proud.
We woke very early in Cambridge and had breakfast at a Pret a Manger in probably the fanciest building we’d ever encountered for this establishment. A man was seated nearby waiting for his friend, while a man at another table drolly asked him if he intended to attend the parade to celebrate the Battler of Agincourt’s 575th anniversary. The Battle of Agincourt was one of few battles won by the British in the 100 Years’ War with France. The man waiting for his friend responded he would not attend the fictional parade; rather he would celebrate later with a bottle of wine. “Not French wine, I hope,” quipped the historical savant.
My husband had won the aBode shower lottery for the second day running. Warm for him, lukewarm for me. We headed for hopefully greener pastures with a fairly uneventful trip from Canterbury West to Charing Cross. The train had been nearly empty leaving Canterbury but became jam-packed, stop by stop, by the time we reached London. We had been wondering how on earth the Southeastern train system is able to run with any form of profitability considering how empty almost every train we’d been on over four days had been. It appears to work similar to Christmas for retailers. All the money must be made on trains as they approach stops close to London.
By the time we arrived in London, it was raining again, but our hotel was reasonably close by way of a funny alley. Our new hotel in London, The Grand at Trafalgar Square, met the new financial criteria to which my husband and I agreed before the trip. They weren’t ready to check us in, but checked our luggage and showed us to a nice lounge where we could regroup and make a latte. The hotel seemed pretty fancy for our new price point.
We were intending to meet a friend later in the day who was coming into London from California with her adult children. Their original flight had been cancelled and their new flight would be later. So we bought tickets for the Secret Maps exhibit at the British Library to stay occupied. We’ve been to the British Library twice in the past, once for the Treasures exhibit, years ago, and once for the Medieval Women exhibit earlier this year. The British Library has super interesting documents to start with, and they pull together such interesting narrative and themes for their exhibits.
This exhibit about secret maps was the best I’ve seen there. It just never occurred to me how interesting the history of maps is and how they were used–to share information as well as to obscure, deflect, and mislead to maintain an upper hand–commercially, politically, in warfare. Also, how many different kinds of maps there have been to be used for these purposes, including maps of land masses, trade routes, the heavens, escape routes, war equipment and assets. And how maps were shared with the right people.
After viewing the exhibit, we checked into our hotel, learning that The Grand is part of the Club Quarters chain. We’ve only stayed at this chain once on one of our trips many years ago. There’s a lot of work and lounge space in the hotel and it’s quite fancy. I noted that this would have been a good hotel for the times I worked from London last year. In contrast, the rooms are pretty basic and small. But, hey, hot water both days we need it. A win.
Speaking of maps used for deception, it’s long been a thing that Mikel Arteta keeps things close to the vest in his press conferences before a match. He tells the truth and nothing but the truth, but with regard to injuries, it’s often not the whole truth. There is often someone who came off the last match limping, of whom Arteta will truthfully say in his next press conference before a match whether the player has been in practice that week. But often he’ll say they’ll evaluate them on match day and see how things stand. Then that player may show up as a starter, or as a sub, or we’ll find out after the match he’ll have surgery tomorrow and will be out for at least three months.
Gabriel Magalhaes, big Gabi, came off in the match against Atletico Madrid with about 20 minutes left to play and it looked like something was not quite right with him. Arteta had said in his pre-match press conference for Crystal Palace that he was unsure whether Gabi would play against Crystal Palace. “Let’s see how he evolves,” he said. Arsenal is having a wonderful defensive season and a lot of the reason has been the play of Big Gabi. His partnership with William Saliba is considered among the best in the Premier League. And obviously, he’s been important for delivering goals from set plays. Either he heads it in himself or places where someone else can finish up the job.
But Arsenal’s defense is not only good because of Gabriel and Saliba; the whole team contributes to Arsenal’s overall stability. Arsenal has held every team goalless since September 28, yes, but teams hadn’t even been able to register a shot on target. And we’ve seen some great play from the person who can deputize Big Gabi, Christhian Mosquera. So losing Big Gabi would not be ideal, but it’s not a horrible situation either.
Arteta also used his press conference to encourage fans to bring the noise and spirit. “Play the game with us,” he requested. “If we’re going to win the league, everybody has to turn up.”
On that backdrop we arrived at the stadium the next day having spent a morning walking in the Tower Hill area and having had a nice lunch. We got to the stadium a bit late but still made time to walk through the Armoury and, as has lately been our habit, buying nothing. My husband and I were sitting apart from each other but both in the west stands. He was high up near the half way line; I was in Club near the North end. My seats were just about even with the D at the top of the penalty box. We had had a pretty easy time getting tickets for this match, none of the usual drama and not very many clicks.
I arrived at my seat with very little time to spare before the teams came out of the tunnel. There was something odd about my section that made it a little less straightforward to access from any direction and it took me some time to find the right passages. My section had quite a few human season ticket holders in it, and I’ve found that those areas of Club are almost as much fun as being in other parts of the stadium. Lots of spirit.
The whole stadium seemed to be taking Arteta’s request to heart. A lively atmosphere considering the opponent was Crystal Palace. Technically a derby, but usually one without as much of the usual rancor. This even though Crystal Palace managed to produce a tie in our last match at The Emirates.
One possible point of drama was that Eberechi Eze came to us from Crystal Palace. As I recall, he scored one of the goals in the match at the Emirates last year. The woman to the left of me wondered aloud whether Eze would celebrate if he scored a goal against Crystal Palace. There is some nonsense where players who score against their former team will not celebrate so as to be kind to their former club. To date, the Crystal Place fans have been notably classy about losing Eze to Arsenal. He did a lot for them. They appreciate that. Eze has played pretty well for Arsenal but has only scored one goal this season, in the Carabou cup. It seemed we probably would not find out the answer to that question on the day.
In contrast, Declan Rice came to Arsenal from West Ham under similar circumstances but while producing £105 million in revenue for his former club. Money that could be used to strengthen the West Ham team beyond replacing this one player. But Declan Rice gets tortured when he plays against West Ham. They do not forgive him at all. Rice didn’t score against West Ham in his first season with Arsenal. He did manage to score against them in early October at the Emirates. And while he did not celebrate the goal he scored right in front of the visiting fans, he appeared to make eye contact. A bit of a glare, I felt.
An example of a player who did celebrate against his former team: Arsenal had a player named Emmanuel Adebayor from 2006 to 2009, when he was sold to Manchester City. The first time Arsenal faced Man City at Man City’s stadium, Adebayor scored a goal against Arsenal and then ran the whole length of the pitch to celebrate in front of the Arsenal fans, who rioted. I’m sure he was receiving a ton of schtick from the Arsenal fans before that decision. The process of losing players was so painful at that time. You felt so insulted when someone chose to leave.
I was so late to my seat I didn’t have time to check out the line-up. As soon as the players came out of the tunnel, there was Big Gabi, clearly in the starting line-up. Quite a relief. And Eze, of course.
All the usual ceremony took place. Good old Arsenal (blah), North London forever (yay) and finally the kick-off.
Many times I’ve been asked why I fell in love with Arsenal. Although I fell in love well in advance of the Premier League being picked up by NBC sports in 2013, I remember a great article in the sporting press in conjunction with the rollout campaign for NBC about how, now that everyone would be able to watch every match, someone could go about selecting a team to support. It was described as being akin to the sorting hat in Harry Potter. Just watch the soccer and a team will be magically chosen for you.
I was watching soccer with my kids and husband on Fox soccer channel well before that and had that sorting hat experience after watching Arsenal a few times. When I try to verbalize why Arsenal was chosen, I say I’m a sucker for beautiful, flowing soccer. Arsene Wenger, Arsenal’s manager at the time, also appeared to have a weakness for that beauty. His teams were stacked with players with technical ability. People who could complete the beautiful pass, deception with the ball, a tricky dribble, a back heal, a lovely, arcing shot. But Arsenal was also naive in spirit and porous in defense. The Arsenal of old could also not break down a low block, but it was very susceptible to counterattacks.
But now, Arsenal is not that. This is not really a pretty team. So why has the sorting hat not rethought my options?
I’ve heard it said that the reason is Arsenal fans are hypocritical. Speaking only for me, I think I’ve become more mature as an appreciator of the sport. Not just the overtly pretty things, but things that are less obvious. I have learned that what I want and what Mikel Arteta wants are often two different things. And when someone knows more than you and sees things you never could and whose job hangs in the balance, it may make sense to try to respect that. And try to learn what that person is attempting to achieve. What is the objective when working from the back? What is the objective of the horseshoe of death (as we call it when Arsenal’s defenders are passing from right to left and back to right)? Why has Arteta selected this player in this situation and a different player in another situation? What are the different ways Arsenal attacks a set piece? I’ve learned to appreciate winning a duel, laying down a great tackle, working in concert to ensure our defensive team is the last line of defense and not the first line. And, of course, all the different ways to produce a deceptive set piece.
And when I approach a match with not just excitement, but also curiosity, a match that might have felt tedious to me feels interesting and like a learning experience. The Crystal Palace match, especially in the first half, was probably the poster child for a match I would have formerly found tedious, but at this time found fascinating. And with regard to my fellow fans at the stadium, I would say almost every time they might be starting to feel frustrated, they reacted by trying to lift up the team with chanting. Arteta’s request had clearly been heard.
Crystal Palace of course deployed a low block and Arsenal of course struggled to unlock it. I can only remember one shot on goal. And when Arsenal did unlock it, guess how?
Set piece again, olé olé. One of the Crystal Palace’s players briefly lost the plot near the end of the first half and fouled Saka, giving up a free kick, which Declan Rice took. At least 20,000 fans in the stadium picked up their phones and started taking video, including the man to my right. The ball Declan kicked naturally came to Big Gabi, who was facing Declan and away from the goal and who headed it back toward the edge of the penalty area. Eze came running in and struck the ball in a very odd way. Since the match, I’ve heard the kick he made referred to as a karate kick, a scissor kick, a hitch kick, a forward bicycle kick, and probably a few other things.
Whatever. It rocketed into the net.
Answer to the question posed at the top of the match by my seat mate: Eze did not really celebrate. He kind of also did not not celebrate.
We celebrated enough to make up for whatever it was he was doing.
At halftime I went to concessions and stood in a long line of people getting beer and ultimately picked up a cup of tea. One of the beers Arsenal is now serving at the stadium is Guinness. It takes a long time to pour a Guinness–I wonder if they regret that? The lady next to me complained fiercely to me about the inefficiency of the process of serving beer. Beer is available at no added charge to those in Club. Ergo, a lot of people want one. I appreciated her decision to read me into her frustration and nodded sympathetically, even though my empathy was not really piqued.
In the second half, Arsenal had a lot of chances right in front of me, just no success scoring. Hitting the bar, goal keeper saves, a lot of excitement, not much payout. Some set pieces that did not produce a goal.
Arsenal’s former player Eddie Nketiah was introduced late in the match to the applause of both home and away fans. Eze was withdrawn about 5 minutes from the end of normal time to the applause both home and away fans.
Toward the end, everyone seemed so tired and Crystal Palace did make some progress challenging toward the goal. I think Arteta was very willing to trust our defensive stability and not worry so much about scoring again. As much as Arteta does not worry. Whatever we are seeing on the field and however we might try to understand and appreciate it, there appears to always be something more he is looking for. I guess we are all growing up together but he’s working on it well ahead of most of us.
The match ended 1-0. The only shot registered by statisticians as being “on target” against Arsenal was this weird thing from Eddie Nketiah that David Raya easily caught. Arsenal’s six matches in October ended with no goals scored against it and only one shot taken by an opponent–Eddie Nketiah’s–being ruled “on target.”
My husband and I normally meet after the match at the Arsene Wenger statue. I got confused with the unusual set-up of my section and headed the wrong way out of the stadium. It took me forever to figure out my mistake. So long, and with crowds so thick. it just made sense to keep walking. It was raining again and when I arrived my husband was waiting under building near the statue.
We walked in the rain back to Arsenal station, 3 points in our raincoat pockets and plans for a nice dinner with our California friends.
Fall has always been my favorite season. Cool, crisp days. Red and yellow leaves. Apple pie. I feel melancholy in Fall–an end is near–but for some reason I like that.
This Fall hasn’t much happened in Chicago. It’s been warm, sunny and while some leaves have dropped, they’ve mostly just dropped brown. While I hoped that was an anomaly, it seems Fall is delayed in London as well. Not much going on in the Fall leaves department although I can confirm that the days are cool. Wet and rainy as well. Not that that is necessarily a Fall thing. It’s kind of a London thing.
Hotels were in short supply for this trip and we ended up getting one in the Kensington area. My husband has never loved that area. In his mind, there are more interesting neighborhoods. After staying there once many years ago, we’ve never been back. A very nice thing about Kensington is that it’s closer to Heathrow than some of the other places we’ve stayed so a very quick trip in and out. It’s on the Piccadilly tube line so you can go straight to The Emirates without the crazy switch at Kings Cross St. Pancras where hundreds of Arsenal supporters are stacked up trying to change trains. It’s also kind of quiet and relaxing. There are many restaurant options without the hustle and bustle. In short, perhaps worthy of reconsideration for hotel selection.
Anyway, we found ourselves back in London on Monday for a Tuesday match. Our flight arrived after noon on and a driving rain was visible out the windows at Heathrow.
A big advantage of the hotel we chose this time, The Bailey’s, is that it’s across the street from the Gloucester Road tube station. I really appreciated not being out in that rain for more than a street crossing, even with my knee-length rain coat. It’s also kind of a quintessential charming, old London hotel. Small, pretty rooms with character. This hilarious stuffed cat decor in the lobby.
We got settled in our room and went out to get lunch at the Hereford Arms. We’ve been to this pub before. It’s always good. And, for my husband, they have the London Pride beer he enjoys. I enjoyed one, too, this time.
After that we went to Banksy Limitless, an exhibit of Banksy art and history. I enjoy street art and Banksy is interesting given his anonymity–for a famous guy. He is also quite prolific. This exhibit, clearly put together by Banksy or with his blessing, includes a timeline of his art and themes and images of the art he’s created over the years. In most cases, reproductions of the art. In reality, a lot of his art has been covered over across time. He uses stencils that he’s created so it’s possible to do a reasonable reproduction.
It’s unusual to view art at the same time as seeing the artist’s narrative interpretation of what he wanted to communicate. In most cases we view art long after the artist has passed. My husband observed that he likes to decide for himself what the art is about and found it distracting to always be told in this exhibit the artist’s meaning. I suspect the interpretation was necessary because the art is itself commentary on some recent occurrence or social norm. Does the art have meaning if you don’t know to what it refers? In that respect, I guess Banksy’s form of art is like comedy. It’s funny in the moment but does every moment have long-term significance such that it would be funny a few years later when you’ve forgotten what inspired it? And maybe in that sense, when we don’t yet know until much later if the moments were significant, we can’t yet tell if the art is significant. On the other hand, maybe we don’t have to care. Meaning in the moment can also be art.
My favorite exhibit was the film in which they captured the moment Banksy’s picture of the girl with a ballon was sold in auction. As soon as it was announced sold, a shredder built inside the frame activated and the picture was partially destroyed. The people in the auction looked sickened. (I saw some reporting that the buyer was offered to be allowed to void the sale but did not. Later, it was even more valuable after it was destroyed.)
Although one of Banksy’s themes is the peril of commercialism, Banksy himself did not fail to capitalize on this exhibit. In addition to the entrance fee, the final step of the exhibit was a big gift shop. Although we participated in the entrance fee we did not buy the t-shirts or mugs.
We are very slow learners because after a flight in which I barely slept we decided to attend a lecture on how chemistry is used in forensic science at the Royal Institution. The speaker, Kingston Associate Professor Baljit Thatti, brought in a full auditorium and she must have been amazing, because the presentation was followed by one of the most energetic question and answer sessions I’ve ever witnessed. But I can tell you very little about her obviously excellent presentation. It was a good amuse-bouche for a great night of sleep back at The Bailey’s.
In the morning, we took an hour-long bus ride to Richmond Park. Before coming to London I had googled all the events in London and what kept coming up instead of events was ways to enjoy Autumn in London. Richmond Park is part of the Royal Parks and was highly recommended as a way to take in Fall colors.
It’s possible to rent bikes and ride the 7-mile loop around the park but unfortunately bike rental is only on weekends this time of year. Instead we made our way across a huge, golden meadow on a grass path on our way to a garden called Isabella Plantation. As we walked we could see grazing animals in the distance that almost appeared to be sheep. Upon closer inspection, they were the famous wild red deer herd that had been introduced in the park by King Charles I in the 1600s.
As we were walking toward the red deer in the field to get a closer look we happened upon a much larger deer laying in the field, one of the fallow deer. We almost didn’t spot the huge buck in vegetation very close to our path.
Leaving the meadow and heading into the forest, the birds were unbelievably loud. I use an app called Merlin to identify bird calls I don’t know. Admittedly “calls I don’t know” is almost all bird calls. The app is produced by Cornell Lab of Ornithology in NY. It can be a bit spotty about identifying birds in England, but on this day it detected Eurasian Jackdaws and Rose-ringed Parakeets.
We got lost several times but ultimately found Isabella Plantation, a lovely, lush garden.
Even without colorful fall leaves, Richmond Park was, as the internet promised us, a great way to experience the beauty of Fall in London.
We took a bus into Fulham, had a nice, late lunch at an Italian pizza chain, took the train back to Central London to work out logistics for travels the next day, pre-gamed at the Admiralty, and then headed off to The Emirates for the Champion’s League match against Atletico Madrid. Despite a lovely, calm day in nature I felt very, very nervous.
At the time we flew to London, both my husband and I had tickets for the Nottingham Forest game but only I had tickets for the Man City game. That remained true across thousands of clicks on the Arsenal web site. Each time I logged in to try to get a ticket, I had to affirm that I was not a robot. Sometimes I had to prove it by reviewing photos and click on all the ones, for example, that contain street lights. And sometimes even though I seemingly passed all the anti-robot tests put in front of me, I could still take repetitive action on the ticket exchange that made the exchange believe I might have fibbed about being a robot. Then you get the white screen of death and have to start over. Fortunately, I finally found my husband a ticket the very day before the match.
That was the day we travelled back to London from Norwich also. Tracks from Ipswich to Colchester were under maintenance so we had to take a bus for that leg of the trip. It was well organized by the train service and it occurred with very little drama. As we walked from Liverpool Street Station to check into our hotel, The Clayton Hotel London Wall, we crossed through the very pretty Finsbury Circus Gardens. Upon reaching the hotel, my husband was ready to relax. I was feeling inspired by the garden so I set out to find the St. Dunstan in the East Garden. This is a garden associated with a church. It looked lovely and peaceful, except on the day I visited there was a large contingent of goth-dressed women and photographers doing a photo shoot. I took advantage of the poses for my own photos.
Sometimes I recognize what a shame it’s been that we’ve visited so many hotels in London but not really used the opportunity to rank hotels. It happens that we had previously visited the Clayton Hotel London Wall in the past, but I had forgotten what a good option this is. The rooms are spacious, there is tons of storage, and the bathroom is nice. The mattress was like a concrete slab. I happen to be a fan of the concrete slab mattress. This may seem like a weird thing, but the bathroom has an enclosed shower with a ledge that prevents water from entering the rest of the bathroom. You’d be surprised how many do not. The only downside of this hotel is that it’s located in the business district so a lot of restaurants and pubs nearby are closed on the weekend.
We booked a play to attend that night, The Full English at Baron’s Court Theatre. This was a one-woman show by a linguist, poet, and actor Melanie Blanton, literally about the English language and how it developed across time as England both was impacted by migrating, and sometimes invading, forces as well as England’s own experience colonizing other countries. The Baron’s Court Theatre is a tiny space in the basement of a pub called Curtains Up. Before the play people gathered in the pub and then brought their drinks into the space and during intermission, they repeated. The theatre was so tiny that it was in my mind that it would be really bad to sleep in this play because the actor would for sure be able to see that. I was at my alert best. Perhaps because I’d for once had time to acclimate to the time change having been in England for a week. Two older ladies in the first row did not get the same memo. They both slept through a lot of the play. Then again, they availed themselves of several pints. In a warm, dark space we all know what that can lead to for us aged folk.
What I just said might sound like not a ringing endorsement of the play, but I actually loved it. It was entertaining and I learned a lot. I feel like this whole trip reinforced for me how England developed. We’ve spent time in London in the past looking into the Roman invasion, but this trip (including this play) gave insight into the migration of Anglo-Saxons as well as invasions by Vikings and Normans.
The match was the next day, Sunday. Unfortunately, that morning my husband tweaked his back and really could not walk or sit without a lot of pain. He’s had this problem before so he always travels with muscle relaxants which helps get through the night or a long flight in Basic Economy. However, those aren’t good for getting through a day or a soccer match so we invested a bit of time trying to find an electric heating pad or something to help loosen things up. We were successful in locating a disposable heating belt that you can affix under your clothing and that heats for 12 hours. A great solution for our day and for the plane trip back on Monday and it seemed to help quite a bit.
We didn’t want to overdo it so we decided to keep it simple that morning by only visiting one exhibit at the British Museum, the one displaying the treasures found at Sutton Hoo. As you may recall, once it was established that Edith Pretty had full rights to the artifacts found on her property, she donated all of them to the British Museum. One of the most interesting objects was the helmet found–crushed, where the burial compartment of the Anglo-Saxon ship in one of the mounds had collapsed. The British museum made two efforts to put the pieces together, one that they felt good about. The actual reconstructed helmet is displayed, as is a replica of what it may have looked like originally. The display also includes coins, dishes, and other objects of Anglo-Saxon life. Fascinating exhibit and a perfect follow-up to our visit at Sutton Hoo. The British Museum, like many other attractions in London, is free to visit but so expansive it’s really nice to be able to feel like you can just see what you want to see on the day without feeling guilty about wasting admission.
After lunch we travelled over to the Emirates for the match. It took more time than usual to get into the stadium, at least where I was seated in the North Bank. I was lucky to be in my seat as the teams were coming out on the field. You’ve heard me speaking about how much I love singing and being in the stadium as “North London Forever” is being played, but there is a song played at every Arsenal match that I despise. It’s called Good old Arsenal. It’s played both before the first half and the second half. It sounds like it was invented in the 1940s, but my quick google just now tells me it first made its appearance at the stadium in 1971.
Good old Arsenal
We’re proud to say that name
While we sing this song
We’ll win the game
They usually get through it 2 times before the rest of the pomp happens. I was in my seat for it and it annoyed me, like always. I do sing it because while we sing this song we win the game. How can I decline? I’m a model fan. Note: it does not always produce the results it claims.
With Martin Odegaard still injured, Mikel Arteta started exactly the same midfield he had selected for the mid-week Champions League match. He made one change in the forward line, replacing Eze with Leandro Trossard. This was maybe a bit surprising considering the opposition. Kind of a very secure but not very adventuresome lineup. William Saliba was restored to his normal center half position after an ankle injury having not played much since then. He seemed a bit rusty.
If you consider the totality of the match, we were mostly successful at being secure. But there was this one insecure moment pretty early in the first half where there was a turnover on a mistake and Man City’s excellent striker, Erling Haaland, got forward on a breakaway where Man City had three players on two Arsenal players. Haaland didn’t have the ball early in the breakaway but he was clearly the one you didn’t want to see the ball come to. We didn’t have him covered well and he did get the ball. He had no problem placing it in the Arsenal goal beyond David Raya.
All through the match Man City was pretty much bunkered in and we were unable to find a way through. Although I understood after the match everyone watching seemed to find it boring, I thought it was a fascinating match. Kind of like watching chess. I know not everyone likes watching chess when they came to watch football. But obviously frustrating, going at them again and again and never finding a way through.
After halftime, the Arsenal team came out to the the sound of “Good Old Arsenal,” like always. But this time, Man City didn’t come out for ages. It played 6 or 7 times. I enjoyed it less than usual which, as I mentioned, is not at all.
Mikel Arteta made increasingly creative substitutions across the second half and we did start to make headway in penetrating the Man City defense, which by now was just a big, old bus parked in front of the goal. He even removed a defender to put on an attacker, Gabriel Martinelli.
Everyone refers to the players who start the match as “starters.” Lately, Arteta has notably been referring to players who are substituted on as “finishers.” I don’t know where this started but I do know this is terminology that Sarina Wiegman, the winning manager for women’s Euros, used to describe her very accomplished substitutes. One of whom was Chloe Kelly, the Arsenal player who visibly improved the England team in many matches and scored the deciding penalty kick in the final. In my opinion, language matters and I think this is a good development for Arteta’s players. All of the players are good enough to start, but not all of them can be selected. Instead, Arteta needs to be able to use them to change the course of the match. And they are just as important to the match in their different role.
While Arteta was replacing defenders with attackers, Man City’s manager was replacing attackers with defenders. Even Erland Haaland was removed. (The manager said afterward he did this because Haaland said he was tired.) Both managers wanted points from this match but Man City’s manager was definitely working from the preferred position.
It seemed like the match was going to end a Man City win as we entered injury time. But never say never. Eberechi Eze, who ultimately found himself playing, managed to slip a ball over the Man City defenders to a breaking Martinelli, who managed to evade them as the goalkeeper rushed out toward him. The lightest loft of the ball with the edge of his foot and the ball was floating into the air over the keeper and against the far netting. Then a roll into the back of the net to the excitement of an entire stadium. A finisher’s finish. Until it hit the back of the net from my seat–closer to where the ball was lofted and farther from where it nestled into the netting–I was not sure it was in.
With the few minutes remaining, we continued to try to score and Man City made more offensive progress than it had tried in a while. In the end, a 1-1 tie was all we could get done.
Sometimes a late tie like that feels like a win but in this case, well, even though I was really happy the goal happened, it mostly felt like a tie. And you know the stadium DJ was feeling it, too because he played another song I’ve come to really hate at the Emirates, the song he usually plays for a tie (and I think maybe also for a loss): Tears for Fears’ Everybody Wants to Rule the World. Maybe I once liked it, but now I’ve been conditioned. It’s like a song you associate from your youth with the summer some boyfriend broke up with you. Bah. Dislike.
Better luck next time? We shall see.
After the match, Mikel; Arteta took a shellacking in the press conference and in commentary for the week for the starting line-up he used which, again, was the same forward and midfield line as in the Champions League win on Tuesday. “Why are you keeping the handbrake on?” I’ve already seen an “Arteta Out” message on social media. A writer on Football 365, which lately has been on a clickbait tear, likened Arteta to Donald Trump. Admittedly the writer is English so he may not have the clearest picture of Donald Trump’s traits, but I can assure anyone that whatever you might dislike in Trump and whatever you might dislike in Arteta, these are NOT the same traits.
Such is the state of his life. No matter what Arteta does, it’s used as a stick to beat him with. This is a great, young manager in his first head coaching role. He has a large, excellent, diverse team with 8 new players to incorporate, and figuring that out takes time. Which members of the team work together well under the varying conditions you can expect or that unexpectedly are in place?
A 1-1 tie against Man City nearing the end one of the most difficult early schedules in the Premier League while we’re sorting that out? Whatever Mikel does at this time, I’m with him. While Social Media and football commentators try their best to get me riled with media’s proven strategies to rile, I am capable of resisting.
Because, remember, as I have sworn so many times to the Arsenal web site, I’m not a robot.
Although we arrived in London on the Friday before a Saturday match, pretty typical timeline, we had an unusually quiet time before the match. We had selected a hotel we’d never stayed in, the Montcalm East, located in Shoreditch. As with many recent trips, a hotel nicer than our normal budget would allow but that came into our price point for this trip. Very nice hotel. In my top 5.
After checking in, we relaxed a bit and then had lunch at Pizza Union. My husband had to call in for an Italian class, during which I made up for the sleep I failed to get on the plane. Afterward, we walked over to The Artillery Arms for a beer and dinner. The kitchen was closed by then, so it ended up being beer alone. Cute place, a Fuller pub, naturally. We selected snacks from an Aldi along the way back to the hotel to get through the night.
As much sleep as I got in the late afternoon and evening you’d think it would be a struggle to sleep at night. It was not. I slept like a baby. We awoke in the morning and had a delicious breakfast at A Pinch of Salt Cafe.
The match against Nottingham Forest was early, 12:30, so we headed to the Emirates soon thereafter. Spent a bit of time in Arsenal’s merch shop, The Armoury, just checking out the new stuff. There is always new stuff.
My seat was in the North Bank, really my favorite place to watch a match. You can see play developing and the crowd is almost always quite enthusiastic. This was true on Saturday as well. It’s a pleasure sitting near supporters who are–well–supportive. The North Bank also is prime positioning for offensive actions by Arsenal in the second half. Nothing more fun than having a goal scored right in front of you.
Arteta changed up the lineup in a somewhat surprising way, bringing new guy Eberechi Eze into the left wing and using Mikel Merino instead of Declan Rice. In midfield with Merino was Martin Odegaard, back in the lineup after his shoulder injury during the Leeds match, and other new guy, Martin Zubimendi. The other starters were a bit less surprising given our poor injury record this season.
I would think the changes Arteta made would not have been anticipated by a rival manager. However, in this case, the rival manager didn’t have much time to anticipate anything at all, having been hired only the week before the match. It was our old nemesis from Tottenham, Ange Postecoglou. Tottenham sacked him at the end of last season. Even though he did manage to win the Europa League, the rest of the season was pretty bad for Tottenham. Nottingham Forest only recently fired their manager, Nuno Espírito Santo. He’d been a good manager for Nottingham Forest but seemed to have been done in mostly by office politics. I’d rather face an Ange team than a Santo team, but was a bit nervous about the possibility of the dreaded new manager bounce that can occur sometimes.
Needn’t have worried because Arsenal were excellent right from the start. We dominated possession and looked really, really dangerous. And naturally, because Ange is (to us) Tottenham, we supporters were up for it also. Loud, loud, loud, and quite obnoxious.
Sadly, after losing Martin Odegaard to a shoulder injury in the first 10 minutes in the Leeds match, we lost him again early in this match after he fell awkwardly on the same shoulder. Ethan Nwaneri again came on and deputized him well.
Martin Zubimendi joined up with Arsenal over the summer from Spanish team Real Sociedad. Technically, his deal was agreed across all parties in March, but for financial reasons Real Sociedad wanted it to go through in their fiscal year starting in July. His move to Arsenal was kept relatively quiet although we believed he was likely coming into the team. We were excited—he looked like a great replacement for Thomas Partey, who was to be out of contract over the summer. But the longer the announcement was delayed, and with Arsenal’s surprising move to briefly pursue Partey at the end of last season, the more I worried Zubimendi might not come at all. But you know how it is. Once it’s finally done you rewrite history in your head. Of course he was always coming to Arsenal.
As I recall it, he was the first signing of a busy July for Arsenal. Shortly after Martin Zubimendi was signed, so was Christian Norgaard and Noni Madueke. And it seemed we would also bring in Viktor Gyokeres. Gyokeres was the most exciting signing for fans because he’s a striker, and we have sooooo needed one. Plus, he was lighting up the Portuguese league with goal after goal. When Gyokeres was announced as an Arsenal player, sales of shirts with his name on the back broke the existing record for shirt sales at Arsenal. So with all the other excitement, while I was happy Zubimendi signed, it went a bit under my radar as an important development.
In the pre season and first two matches, Martin Zubimendi was quietly excellent as a player. Mikel Arteta put him right into the lineup and he was solid defensively and reasonably creative offensively. Easy to take for granted. And I think we did just that.
In the match against Nottingham Forest, Martin Zubimendi’s excellence went loud. Very, very loud.
Despite Arsenal’s superiority, it took a while to deliver a goal. It finally came about 30 minutes in in the aftermath of a corner kick. Madueke put up a nice one, but it was headed by a Nottingham Forest defender. It was not a bad clearance–beyond the penalty area–except for one big problem. Apparently Martin Zubimendi is able to volley such a ball into the net from that distance. And he did exactly that. A gorgeous goal. Every time they showed it in the stadium—and they showed it on the giant stadium screens more times than usual—every fan watching it again said “Whoa!” in unison when he again struck that ball and it again flew into the net. It might have grazed a defender on the way in, but no way was any goalkeeper keeping that ball out.
1 – 0. Cue chants of “1 nil to the Arsenal.”
At halftime I stepped away for the typical bathroom break and an atypical wait in the concessions line for a cup of tea. Although you can’t bring beer into the stadium, you can bring tea. I heard the announcer say the teams were back on the field and I carried my newly-acquired tea back to my seat in the North bank.
It was a good thing I did because, just as Viktor Gyokeres scored a quick goal right after halftime in the Leeds match, in this match Eberechi Eze received a perfect through ball from Ricardo Califiori within minutes of the restart. He put up a perfect cross for Gyokeres who rammed it in the back of the net from close range. Like the Leeds match, a lot of people who didn’t make their way back into the stadium missed seeing that live. 2 – 0.
At this point, the chanting in the stadium became bifurcated.
Chant 1: the Viktor Gyokeres chant:
He comes from Sweden, the girls are really nice He dumped his girlfriend to play in red and white He’s scoring goals with a cannon on his chest His name is Viktor, Viktor Gyokeres
(I’ll spare you the gratuitous “De de de”s.)
Chant 2: abuse of Nottingham Forest’s new manager, Ange Postecoglou. No need to update the chant Arsenal fans created for Tottenham when he was the manager there, the lyrics still work. It’s too rude for me to repeat here and goes after not only the manager but also the team. I would suspect the Nottingham Forest players have ever felt quite so reviled at the Emirates. Just caught in the bad blood of an old relationship.
The third Arsenal goal came when Arsenal won a free kick for a foul. Arsenal worked it in and Leandro Trossard, who had come on as a sub, put up a nice looping cross toward the goal. Martin Zubimendi, who I don’t perceive as a particularly tall guy, met it with his head and into the back of the net.
With the requisite chants for Zubimendi completed by the Arsenal fans, they turned their attention to hapless manager Ange Postecoglou on his inaugural match with Nottingham Forest:
Sacked in the morning You're getting sacked in the morning
Despite the fact that Zubimendi scored 2 goals and Viktor Gyokeres scored only 1, at the ending whistle the stadium DJ cued up Salt-n-Pepa’s Push it, the musical inspiration for the Gyokeres chant. We note that the DJ can only work with the materials he’s been given. A player is endowed with a chant by the supporters. It may be based on commercially-created music or some traditional chant or some new invention. Much like your family, you can’t chose your own chant. Zubimendi’s chant isn’t based on commercially-available music.
He’ll just have to be happy with being named man of the match. That, and our love and admiration.
We stayed this time at the Andaz London, a very nice hotel on Liverpool street that briefly came into our price point during this trip. On only one other occasion while visiting London was breakfast included in the price of the room, but the Andaz’s breakfast had such interesting and extensive options I feel like I want to pay more attention to this feature when selecting hotels in the future. Although it’s fun finding new places to eat for each meal, it was very relaxing to start the day in our own restaurant and fun to try the many different options they offered. For example, salad. Charcuterie. Also the usual stuff–toast, croissants, waffles, eggs, smoothies, fruit, yogurt.
I’ve often felt that my favorite, most meaningful activities in London have been the cheapest and this trip also had those cheap–and free–moments. Although it’s been our rule not to go to a theatre production on the night we arrive in London, lately it’s more like a guideline. As soon as we booked our flights we checked in on what was playing at Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre since the outdoor theatre is only in use during seasons in which temperate weather can be expected. In the course of the football season that’s usually only possible early on. There was only one performance that would work for us, the one on the Friday night we arrived in London, which turned out to be a late arrival after significant flight delays.
The reason for the rule not to attend theatre is simple: we are usually seriously jet-lagged and can’t keep our eyes open after the lights come down. I felt we’d be able to stay alert and enjoy this play for two reasons. First, The Merry Wives of Windsor is a comedy, albeit one I knew very little about (with apologies to instructors of the two semesters of Shakespeare I took in college). Second, we bought tickets as groundings, the peasants that traditionally stood in front of the stage during a play in Shakespeare’s time (in contrast to the wealthy, who sat in seats above the groundlings). I felt that we’d be forced to stay awake while standing, but if we became too tired to continue we could always depart at intermission. Tickets for groundlings are about $10 each so the sunk costs are reasonable enough to walk away from.
My husband, who clearly paid more attention in his Shakespeare’s classes, recalled that this play had been written by Shakespeare over just a few days at the insistence of Queen Elizabeth. As a result, possibly not his best work. One of few plays set in what would have been Shakespeare’s current day, it’s the story of a man who seeks to seduce the wives of two gentlemen. The wives compare notes and conspire to seek revenge against him. It’s kind of a weird play, but mostly light and enjoyable. Shakespeare often played to the groundlings in his plays and this is expertly done at Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre. Groundlings find themselves in the play and it makes the experience both authentic and a lot of fun. We’ve been to a few plays at the theatre and they are always excellent and well-acted. This one was no exception. We were tired but made it through the performance and felt that we got tremendous entertainment value for a very reasonable price. I never intend to sit in a seat at the Globe.
Our second peasant experience of the weekend was trekking over to the Palladium Theatre and seeing Rachel Zegler sing “Don’t Cry for Me Argentina” from the balcony during the matinee performance of Evita. She literally sings to a gathered crowd below the theatre balcony while, for paying customers inside the theatre, they stream live video of her doing this. When we arrived about an hour before the scene would occur there were already thousands gathered on Argyll Street. While we were waiting, the silly thing that kept coming to my mind was the old, comical sketch about Father Guido Sarducci’s Five Minute University, where he advocates for a college experience where he’ll teach you in five minutes only the things you’ll remember five years after you graduate. I know the outline of what happens in Evita, but literally the only song I’ve ever heard of in a musical of dozens of songs is “Don’t Cry for Me Argentina.” To be able to spend $0 hearing Rachel Zegler sing this song beautifully in 5 minutes in this amazing setting instead of watching the whole musical for $600+ is pretty great. I wasn’t prepared for how moving it would be. The video I linked above is not my video or from the day we were present, but it gives you an idea of the experience. I really wanted to be in the moment (and I was).
Although my favorite things to do in London are almost always the cheapest things, we were in London, so we also did some fancy things. Had a perfect glass of wine in historic Gordon’s Wine Bar on a day so beautiful the ubiquitous line outside was for the garden instead of the wine cave. (We waited for the garden.) Had a delicious Sunday Roast at a pub chain we hadn’t tried before, Blacklock.
We also attended the BBC Proms 2025 piano performance of Bach’s “The Art of Fugue” played by Andras Schiff at the Royal Albert Hall. Many years ago we toured this facility and I had always hoped we’d be able to attend a performance there. It gave me chills to be part of a crowd walking blocks together toward the concert hall to hear music and then, afterward to be walking away together, everyone chatting about the performance. We were seated in a stall to the left of the piano, selected so that we could see Andras Schiff’s hands while he performed. Unfortunately, the positioning of the piano only allowed us to see his back. Best laid plans…. There was a “groundling” equivalent available for the concert, but I was happy not to be standing during this performance. A lady in the first row of the “groundlings” actually seemed to lose consciousness and collapse. For a passed-out person she was quite well-behaved. She seemed to ultimately get back on her feet, the pianist seemingly never knowing that it had happened and continuing on. The acoustics in the hall were great and the music was beautiful. Schiff has claimed that he’s waited 70 years to be ready to play this piece, likened to Mount Everest. I’m a lazy person, but I don’t mind watching someone else scale Mount Everest.
On Sunday before Roast, we visited the Barbican’s “Feel the Sound” immersive exhibit. The exhibit was focused on how we experience sound, not just with our ears but with our whole bodies, and how sound can be created, including with pulses inside our bodies. Super interesting and interactive exhibit.
Each time we go to London I wonder how we’ll continue to find interesting and fun things to do and experience.
It’s a baseless worry. While Arsenal can sometimes be disappointing, London never is.
After a fairly barren soccer summer the Premier League is–at last–back in session. I had plenty of time on my hands, having retired from working at the end of May. I am a person of very few hobbies and one for whom most of my social contacts were established through my work. Therefore, it’s been somewhat of an uphill battle keeping busy, let alone Finding Purpose. I did a lot of gardening, helped some friends and family members with financial questions, and experimented with volunteering. Got plenty of exercise, more than I ever did while working. (I daresay that if I had exercised as much while I was still working maybe I could have tolerated Work BS a few years longer. That’s a theory I don’t feel compelled to test.) Still, I would say there has been a lot of floundering and too much doom scrolling. It’s such a terrible time for scrolling, so hard to keep it mindless and not take in all the nonsense/doom. In short, I have work to do to have a retirement I feel good about.
I couldn’t force myself to watch the Club World Cup–such an abomination–but I did invest in watching almost all of the Women’s Euros. Delightful and worthwhile in every way. I didn’t gravitate to any one team as I usually do while watching international competition, just enjoyed watching women play great soccer, have high highs and low lows. Kudos to Team England for winning the competition. They ground out result after result, never looking comfortable until it was all over.
A lot of my doom scrolling of the summer was focused on Premier League transfer rumors, especially for Arsenal. I see ESPN and other media outlets grading Arsenal’s transfer window as a B-. First, let’s acknowledge the ridiculousness of grading transfer business. Then let’s take exception to the grade Arsenal got. I can’t remember a better overall transfer window in my time as a fan. We’ve brought in six players that would make it possible to replace a future injured first-choice player with a solid second choice option, to successfully rotate to prevent those injuries, to be able to bring different energy from the bench when needed in a match, and to just make us better in key positions.
We successfully brought in a new dedicated striker, Viktor Gyokeres, where both previously available options had been repurposed under desperate circumstances from other positions. In my opinion, both of those options worked out pretty well. But having a guy who has a history of scoring a goal on average in every match is pretty exciting. We also brought in Martin Zubimendi to replace the position formerly filled by Thomas Partey, whose contract expired at the end of the season. Against its better judgment, Arsenal did try to re-sign him, more as a replacement of Jorginho, a solid second-choice defensive midfielder. Partey is an excellent defensive midfielder but has legal–and possibly moral–baggage that we’d have been smart to be freed of. Not by Arsenal intention but because Partey wanted higher pay than Arsenal could stomach, it seems we have been freed.
Zubimendi has been very exciting to watch in the pre-season and will make a great difference immediately. How long it will take Gyokeres to kick in as a valuable option is an open question. He came from a weaker and less physical league and has a style that isn’t exactly a fit for Arsenal. I back him and Arsenal to figure out how to get the best of him.
As I write, Arsenal appear to be in final stages of signing Eberechi Eze from Crystal Palace, out from under the noses of our fiercest rivals, Tottenham. He’s a magnificent creative midfielder but where he fits in Arsenal with its very solid existing midfield is a bit mysterious. I’m going to trust the process, here.
The primary wild card is that other teams were unfairly able to strengthen over the summer as well. The future is contingent on alchemy, ours vs. theirs.
We’ve already played one game in the season, an away fixture at Manchester United on Sunday. That is always a tough game. No matter how badly Manchester United are they always seem to have a good day when we play them at their home. Last Sunday Manchester United played pretty well and Arsenal played pretty shit, but Arsenal still won, 0 – 1. The goal came via a header from an unmarked Riccardo Calafiori on a corner kick routine that has produced more than its fair share of whining. In every corner kick situation in the Premier League there is grappling in the box by both teams, and this kick was no exception. I don’t know how VAR could rule a possible foul by an Arsenal player as more important than fouls on 3 Arsenal players in the same moment, and this time they did not. The goal stood and Manchester United couldn’t break us down for the 80+ minutes after the goal. We’ll take the win.
On that backdrop, my husband and I managed to score tickets to the Leeds match on Saturday. You know the drill, we have to enter the ballot and, once we inevitably lose, that allows us to use the exchange to try to find tickets being sold by others. This is the home opener (not sure they call it that in soccer!) so it was a very popular ticket and arguably hard to get. You know why–because we are going to win the league this year. Everyone wants to say they were at the first game.
For me it was quite easy to get. I was chatting with my mother on the phone and the conversation was nearing its end when she started to tell me a story I had heard before. I am an old person so I appreciate being able to repeat my stories again and again to any person not bold enough to stop me from re-telling them. Therefore, I allowed her to tell the story without interruption while concluding that it might be acceptable to multi-task a bit on the exchange. A ticket came up on my first click. It’s Club (you know I don’t love Club) but the price was decent, I bought it, and a trip could be planned.
Airfare prices are pretty great right now and we were able to book a hotel that’s never before been in our price point. That said, going to London for Arsenal matches is a pretty expensive hobby for someone with no income. Well worth it if you know for a fact you are going to win the league that year. I do know it. You know I know it.
Luckily, while a hopeful fool and her money are soon parted, it takes a whole season to part her from all her money. Let’s rejoice in the fun to be had along the way.
WholeArsed 