Friends in low/high places

We stayed this time at the Andaz London, a very nice hotel on Liverpool street that briefly came into our price point during this trip. On only one other occasion while visiting London was breakfast included in the price of the room, but the Andaz’s breakfast had such interesting and extensive options I feel like I want to pay more attention to this feature when selecting hotels in the future. Although it’s fun finding new places to eat for each meal, it was very relaxing to start the day in our own restaurant and fun to try the many different options they offered. For example, salad. Charcuterie. Also the usual stuff–toast, croissants, waffles, eggs, smoothies, fruit, yogurt.

I’ve often felt that my favorite, most meaningful activities in London have been the cheapest and this trip also had those cheap–and free–moments. Although it’s been our rule not to go to a theatre production on the night we arrive in London, lately it’s more like a guideline. As soon as we booked our flights we checked in on what was playing at Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre since the outdoor theatre is only in use during seasons in which temperate weather can be expected. In the course of the football season that’s usually only possible early on. There was only one performance that would work for us, the one on the Friday night we arrived in London, which turned out to be a late arrival after significant flight delays.

The reason for the rule not to attend theatre is simple: we are usually seriously jet-lagged and can’t keep our eyes open after the lights come down. I felt we’d be able to stay alert and enjoy this play for two reasons. First, The Merry Wives of Windsor is a comedy, albeit one I knew very little about (with apologies to instructors of the two semesters of Shakespeare I took in college). Second, we bought tickets as groundings, the peasants that traditionally stood in front of the stage during a play in Shakespeare’s time (in contrast to the wealthy, who sat in seats above the groundlings). I felt that we’d be forced to stay awake while standing, but if we became too tired to continue we could always depart at intermission. Tickets for groundlings are about $10 each so the sunk costs are reasonable enough to walk away from.

My husband, who clearly paid more attention in his Shakespeare’s classes, recalled that this play had been written by Shakespeare over just a few days at the insistence of Queen Elizabeth. As a result, possibly not his best work. One of few plays set in what would have been Shakespeare’s current day, it’s the story of a man who seeks to seduce the wives of two gentlemen. The wives compare notes and conspire to seek revenge against him. It’s kind of a weird play, but mostly light and enjoyable. Shakespeare often played to the groundlings in his plays and this is expertly done at Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre. Groundlings find themselves in the play and it makes the experience both authentic and a lot of fun. We’ve been to a few plays at the theatre and they are always excellent and well-acted. This one was no exception. We were tired but made it through the performance and felt that we got tremendous entertainment value for a very reasonable price. I never intend to sit in a seat at the Globe.

Our second peasant experience of the weekend was trekking over to the Palladium Theatre and seeing Rachel Zegler sing “Don’t Cry for Me Argentina” from the balcony during the matinee performance of Evita. She literally sings to a gathered crowd below the theatre balcony while, for paying customers inside the theatre, they stream live video of her doing this. When we arrived about an hour before the scene would occur there were already thousands gathered on Argyll Street. While we were waiting, the silly thing that kept coming to my mind was the old, comical sketch about Father Guido Sarducci’s Five Minute University, where he advocates for a college experience where he’ll teach you in five minutes only the things you’ll remember five years after you graduate. I know the outline of what happens in Evita, but literally the only song I’ve ever heard of in a musical of dozens of songs is “Don’t Cry for Me Argentina.” To be able to spend $0 hearing Rachel Zegler sing this song beautifully in 5 minutes in this amazing setting instead of watching the whole musical for $600+ is pretty great. I wasn’t prepared for how moving it would be. The video I linked above is not my video or from the day we were present, but it gives you an idea of the experience. I really wanted to be in the moment (and I was).

Although my favorite things to do in London are almost always the cheapest things, we were in London, so we also did some fancy things. Had a perfect glass of wine in historic Gordon’s Wine Bar on a day so beautiful the ubiquitous line outside was for the garden instead of the wine cave. (We waited for the garden.) Had a delicious Sunday Roast at a pub chain we hadn’t tried before, Blacklock.

We also attended the BBC Proms 2025 piano performance of Bach’s “The Art of Fugue” played by Andras Schiff at the Royal Albert Hall. Many years ago we toured this facility and I had always hoped we’d be able to attend a performance there. It gave me chills to be part of a crowd walking blocks together toward the concert hall to hear music and then, afterward to be walking away together, everyone chatting about the performance. We were seated in a stall to the left of the piano, selected so that we could see Andras Schiff’s hands while he performed. Unfortunately, the positioning of the piano only allowed us to see his back. Best laid plans…. There was a “groundling” equivalent available for the concert, but I was happy not to be standing during this performance. A lady in the first row of the “groundlings” actually seemed to lose consciousness and collapse. For a passed-out person she was quite well-behaved. She seemed to ultimately get back on her feet, the pianist seemingly never knowing that it had happened and continuing on. The acoustics in the hall were great and the music was beautiful. Schiff has claimed that he’s waited 70 years to be ready to play this piece, likened to Mount Everest. I’m a lazy person, but I don’t mind watching someone else scale Mount Everest.

On Sunday before Roast, we visited the Barbican’s “Feel the Sound” immersive exhibit. The exhibit was focused on how we experience sound, not just with our ears but with our whole bodies, and how sound can be created, including with pulses inside our bodies. Super interesting and interactive exhibit.

Each time we go to London I wonder how we’ll continue to find interesting and fun things to do and experience.

It’s a baseless worry. While Arsenal can sometimes be disappointing, London never is.

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